The upper peninsula
Friday, August 29
Slept later than usual that was probably due to the very quiet marina and protected waters and the fatigue from yesterday. The morning was threatening rain with light winds from the southeast. During breakfast, a 27-foot sailboat, named Louise that was flying the looper burgee arrived. The two 20-something years old women were running the boat with an air of skill and confidence. We left shortly after for the DeTour Village Marina that was across the channel and only an hour away because we were looking for more services as we waited out the weather.
A fresh breeze and light showers greeted us as a huge freighter was avoided. The marina is new, large, operated by Michigan’s Department of Natural Resources and was nearly empty. The two employees said that the whole season has been quiet because the weather was often cool, breezy and rainy. They had seen about 30 to 40 looper boats this year and the last one was here four days ago. The morning was spent in the warmth of the tug’s cabin with the diesel heater keeping the space comfortable as we found new weather websites and learned about the winds and waves on Lake Michigan.
At noon, the 27-foot sailboat, Louise, arrived, docked near us and we met Kate and Jessie who are finishing the loop after a two-year adventure. Over the course of the afternoon, we had two great conversations with them that included a walk to the nearby grocery story. We had another gift of serendipity from enjoying their company. Both are 25 years old, great friends, and did this trip with the support of their families. They started out not as experienced boaters but had the willingness to learn and figure it out along the way. They worked in restaurants along the way for several months to fund the trip. They encountered serendipity throughout their trip from people who taught, supplied and helped them. They have become advocates for their generation to experience the Great Loop because of the adventure, lessons learned and fun it has provided. Jessie is a gifted artist who uses photography to express her talent. Their website, katieandjessieonaboat.com, was enjoyable to read.
The winds and rain came and went throughout the afternoon. A phone conversation with Rich, a local tug owner, provided the outline for this part of the trip with places to see and a primer on the Lake Michigan weather.
Slept later than usual that was probably due to the very quiet marina and protected waters and the fatigue from yesterday. The morning was threatening rain with light winds from the southeast. During breakfast, a 27-foot sailboat, named Louise that was flying the looper burgee arrived. The two 20-something years old women were running the boat with an air of skill and confidence. We left shortly after for the DeTour Village Marina that was across the channel and only an hour away because we were looking for more services as we waited out the weather.
A fresh breeze and light showers greeted us as a huge freighter was avoided. The marina is new, large, operated by Michigan’s Department of Natural Resources and was nearly empty. The two employees said that the whole season has been quiet because the weather was often cool, breezy and rainy. They had seen about 30 to 40 looper boats this year and the last one was here four days ago. The morning was spent in the warmth of the tug’s cabin with the diesel heater keeping the space comfortable as we found new weather websites and learned about the winds and waves on Lake Michigan.
At noon, the 27-foot sailboat, Louise, arrived, docked near us and we met Kate and Jessie who are finishing the loop after a two-year adventure. Over the course of the afternoon, we had two great conversations with them that included a walk to the nearby grocery story. We had another gift of serendipity from enjoying their company. Both are 25 years old, great friends, and did this trip with the support of their families. They started out not as experienced boaters but had the willingness to learn and figure it out along the way. They worked in restaurants along the way for several months to fund the trip. They encountered serendipity throughout their trip from people who taught, supplied and helped them. They have become advocates for their generation to experience the Great Loop because of the adventure, lessons learned and fun it has provided. Jessie is a gifted artist who uses photography to express her talent. Their website, katieandjessieonaboat.com, was enjoyable to read.
The winds and rain came and went throughout the afternoon. A phone conversation with Rich, a local tug owner, provided the outline for this part of the trip with places to see and a primer on the Lake Michigan weather.
Saturday, August 30
The rain intensified over the night and woke us up twice with lightning and thunder. The morning’s forecast brought a change and perhaps a window of opportunity to move toward Lake Michigan. We are looking for single digit winds with the hope of flat water. We met BC and John who are cruising from New York and heading down the river system to Mobile, Alabama in a trawler. BC is a woman in her 60’s or 70’s, sharp as a tack, and who is an experienced blue-water sailor. John is probably a relative, in his 20-30’s. We talked about weather and decision-making. We may be seeing more of Sandpiper.
The preferred destination was marina in Cedarville but a phone call found they were full of boats, not boaters that were preparing to be hauled out for the winter. The day’s destination options include Government Bay to anchor and the town of Hessel. The weather forecast is wind and rain for the next two days.
With the southeast winds staying in the single digits and the last of the handful of rain cells past, Andiamo headed out into the flat water. Lake Huron taught a lesson about lake conditions: the big swells do not just go away when the wind drops because where they started is the key. This is the northeast corner of the lake and the swells probably were formed over 100 miles to the southeast. Once the tug left the last protection of Drummond Island, flat water quickly moved to a 2 foot chop and that was replaced by rolling swells, 8 to 12 seconds a part, like on the ocean, and these swells were 3 to 4 feet high with 20% being higher.
Using the route building feature on the Garmin chartplotter, a magenta line was made for this open water transit that would be over 30 miles.
Andiamo was heading south, effectively quartering the swells that made them more comfortable. At the huge Detour reef light station, Andiamo turned 90 degrees to the starboard and took the swells on the port stern quarter. Accelerating to the fast cruising speed, the ride was comfortable enough. The autopilot was not used because adjustments were consistently made to ride the swells effectively. The swells wanted to resist being quartered and pushed the tug into the shallow water. When the swells were three feet and less, the tug was turned more to the south.
Shortly after the turn around the reef light, the land disappeared in a fog bank leaving a visibility of 1.5 to 2.5 miles. However, between the radar and the chartplotter the location of the tug, the buoys and the hazards were always known. For two hours, Andiamo danced with the rolling swells, climbing the backs and sliding down the fronts. Our self-made magenta line took Andiamo to the beginning of Middle Entrance of Les Chemaux Islands or as the locals call them, The Snows. The ride was within the boundaries of being fine because spray did not go over the cabin roof and nothing was spilled on the floor or broken.
Between the islands, Andiamo motored down to navigate the channel markers, the five-foot depth under the keel and pass sailboats and fishermen on this holiday weekend. Passing docks, boathouses and some houses, we arrived at the Hessel Town Marina three hours after leaving and they had plenty of room. Throughout the afternoon, rain cells would briefly drop their heavy load. We walked the docks and the few blocks that made up this small village. Vintage wood powerboats made of mahogany and ranging in size from 16 feet to over 30 feet came and went. The local boatyard was a Chris-Craft dealer since the 1920’s and many of the locally sold boats are still here.
Andiamo had traveled 31 miles in three hours.
The rain intensified over the night and woke us up twice with lightning and thunder. The morning’s forecast brought a change and perhaps a window of opportunity to move toward Lake Michigan. We are looking for single digit winds with the hope of flat water. We met BC and John who are cruising from New York and heading down the river system to Mobile, Alabama in a trawler. BC is a woman in her 60’s or 70’s, sharp as a tack, and who is an experienced blue-water sailor. John is probably a relative, in his 20-30’s. We talked about weather and decision-making. We may be seeing more of Sandpiper.
The preferred destination was marina in Cedarville but a phone call found they were full of boats, not boaters that were preparing to be hauled out for the winter. The day’s destination options include Government Bay to anchor and the town of Hessel. The weather forecast is wind and rain for the next two days.
With the southeast winds staying in the single digits and the last of the handful of rain cells past, Andiamo headed out into the flat water. Lake Huron taught a lesson about lake conditions: the big swells do not just go away when the wind drops because where they started is the key. This is the northeast corner of the lake and the swells probably were formed over 100 miles to the southeast. Once the tug left the last protection of Drummond Island, flat water quickly moved to a 2 foot chop and that was replaced by rolling swells, 8 to 12 seconds a part, like on the ocean, and these swells were 3 to 4 feet high with 20% being higher.
Using the route building feature on the Garmin chartplotter, a magenta line was made for this open water transit that would be over 30 miles.
Andiamo was heading south, effectively quartering the swells that made them more comfortable. At the huge Detour reef light station, Andiamo turned 90 degrees to the starboard and took the swells on the port stern quarter. Accelerating to the fast cruising speed, the ride was comfortable enough. The autopilot was not used because adjustments were consistently made to ride the swells effectively. The swells wanted to resist being quartered and pushed the tug into the shallow water. When the swells were three feet and less, the tug was turned more to the south.
Shortly after the turn around the reef light, the land disappeared in a fog bank leaving a visibility of 1.5 to 2.5 miles. However, between the radar and the chartplotter the location of the tug, the buoys and the hazards were always known. For two hours, Andiamo danced with the rolling swells, climbing the backs and sliding down the fronts. Our self-made magenta line took Andiamo to the beginning of Middle Entrance of Les Chemaux Islands or as the locals call them, The Snows. The ride was within the boundaries of being fine because spray did not go over the cabin roof and nothing was spilled on the floor or broken.
Between the islands, Andiamo motored down to navigate the channel markers, the five-foot depth under the keel and pass sailboats and fishermen on this holiday weekend. Passing docks, boathouses and some houses, we arrived at the Hessel Town Marina three hours after leaving and they had plenty of room. Throughout the afternoon, rain cells would briefly drop their heavy load. We walked the docks and the few blocks that made up this small village. Vintage wood powerboats made of mahogany and ranging in size from 16 feet to over 30 feet came and went. The local boatyard was a Chris-Craft dealer since the 1920’s and many of the locally sold boats are still here.
Andiamo had traveled 31 miles in three hours.
Sunday-Monday, August 31-September 1: TWO DAYS IN HESSEL
Overcast skies, cool temperatures and a fresh breeze started the morning. Laurie bought a local paper at the nearby neighborhood grocery that also stocked booze and did a brisk business in serving easy to cook to food. Looked at the weather data about moving on to Mackinac (pronounced Mack-in-naw, it’s a Michigan thing) Island until Laurie opened the newspaper with a full-page photos of tens of thousands of people jamming the streets. Labor Day weekend is the last event of the year. There was supposed to be a break in the wind, but it never came and the westerly breeze remained in the double digits and the wave heights stayed at 2-3 feet. We could have muscled through it but opted to stay in Hessel and explore. Staying also meant remaining on Monday as a severe weather front was predicted.
The day’s exercise goals were confidently accomplished with a walk to the flea market, a good gift store, and a real local bakery that was nearly cleaned out by noon. After lunch on the tug, the folding bikes took us the three miles to Cedarville for art-in-the-park, live music and the museums. The numbers of people attending were low but they were interested. Both the historical society museum and the maritime museum were interesting and we got a flavor of the community and the region. The brisk wind made cycling back to the tug a workout.
The tug drew some of the local slip holders into conversations. One lives on his 32 Grand Banks trawler from June through August. He is 92 years old, sharp and has been coming here for years. He puts his boat in the water in mid-May and takes it out in mid-September. He said that the warmest weather all summer was yesterday afternoon and this summer has been especially cool. Though he was alone, there was a constant stream of visitors. The evening local news had a good story on Kate and Jessie who will be crossing their wake on September 4 when they land near Traverse City. We felt blessed to have met them. Dinner was at the local pub with good burgers and tacos.
Overcast skies, cool temperatures and a fresh breeze started the morning. Laurie bought a local paper at the nearby neighborhood grocery that also stocked booze and did a brisk business in serving easy to cook to food. Looked at the weather data about moving on to Mackinac (pronounced Mack-in-naw, it’s a Michigan thing) Island until Laurie opened the newspaper with a full-page photos of tens of thousands of people jamming the streets. Labor Day weekend is the last event of the year. There was supposed to be a break in the wind, but it never came and the westerly breeze remained in the double digits and the wave heights stayed at 2-3 feet. We could have muscled through it but opted to stay in Hessel and explore. Staying also meant remaining on Monday as a severe weather front was predicted.
The day’s exercise goals were confidently accomplished with a walk to the flea market, a good gift store, and a real local bakery that was nearly cleaned out by noon. After lunch on the tug, the folding bikes took us the three miles to Cedarville for art-in-the-park, live music and the museums. The numbers of people attending were low but they were interested. Both the historical society museum and the maritime museum were interesting and we got a flavor of the community and the region. The brisk wind made cycling back to the tug a workout.
The tug drew some of the local slip holders into conversations. One lives on his 32 Grand Banks trawler from June through August. He is 92 years old, sharp and has been coming here for years. He puts his boat in the water in mid-May and takes it out in mid-September. He said that the warmest weather all summer was yesterday afternoon and this summer has been especially cool. Though he was alone, there was a constant stream of visitors. The evening local news had a good story on Kate and Jessie who will be crossing their wake on September 4 when they land near Traverse City. We felt blessed to have met them. Dinner was at the local pub with good burgers and tacos.
The next day, the morning was spent of the boat projects happens on most trips. Laundry was done, the freezer was defrosted, and research was done. The marina’s Wi-Fi does not work for us and the cellular strength is spotty. Updating the website is not possible until a better Internet connection is found. In August, Andiamo traveled just over 500 miles for a total of 3,500 miles on this trip.
We are getting our heads around this part of the trip. Chicago and the river system is 350 miles away. The prevailing wisdom is to plan one no-go day due to weather or lake conditions for every 2 days of traveling. Most of what we want to see is in the upper part of “the mitt” of Michigan. Look at the top of your left hand with an out-stretched thumb and this is roughly the shape of Michigan, minus the Upper Peninsula that goes across the top. So, most of the recommended places are above the little finger.
Mid-afternoon brought wind, rain and thunder with the tug’s cabin being dark enough to require turning on the lights. When the cell went past, the air was still, hot and humid. We walked the few blocks that had not been explored. In an hour, a new fresh breeze came from the west and rose to create whitecaps across the bay. Watching the weather is better than television and in a few hours we had seen a variety.
We are getting our heads around this part of the trip. Chicago and the river system is 350 miles away. The prevailing wisdom is to plan one no-go day due to weather or lake conditions for every 2 days of traveling. Most of what we want to see is in the upper part of “the mitt” of Michigan. Look at the top of your left hand with an out-stretched thumb and this is roughly the shape of Michigan, minus the Upper Peninsula that goes across the top. So, most of the recommended places are above the little finger.
Mid-afternoon brought wind, rain and thunder with the tug’s cabin being dark enough to require turning on the lights. When the cell went past, the air was still, hot and humid. We walked the few blocks that had not been explored. In an hour, a new fresh breeze came from the west and rose to create whitecaps across the bay. Watching the weather is better than television and in a few hours we had seen a variety.
Tuesday, September 2: MACKINAC ISLAND (pronounced Mack-in-aw)
The morning was calm, cool and the tug was soaked with dew like it had been sprayed with a hose. The lines were dropped after breakfast and the tug navigated the channels markers through the West Entrance of the islands and went to Mackinac Island. The crossing was easy in a short chop with the fresh breeze on the bow. Andiamo arrived two hours later covering the 15 miles at its slower efficient speed.
The Michigan Department of Natural Resources operates the state-owned marina and put us on a fixed dock that was on the shore and close to the bathrooms. The marina was less than half full. Like most tourist areas, the crowds dropped considerably after Labor Day and this is the time that we typically visit parks.
Mackinac Island is a small island that had big impact on the area’s history because of its location. The island saw fur traders, a British Fort, then an American Fort and back to the British during the War of 1812, and then back to the Americans, a hub for commercial fishing, and then a tourist destination, and was the second National Park after Yellowstone but was later given to the State of Michigan when the army pulled out. A little known fact is the army was first custodians of the national parks; soldiers were the rangers. Going to Mackinac Island is a must-do.
What sets Mackinac Island a part from other tourist spots was the decision by the local government in the late 1800’s to ban the automobile. The island was developed around the cyclist and the pedestrian. About 500 people call the island home year round. About 500 people call the island home year round and 500 horses serve the carriage industry. fter October 15, only one ferry company will serve the island until January when the lake freezes and an ice bridge is created. Then, the locals use snowmobiles to get to the mainland.
By 11AM, the folding bikes were out and we went exploring. About half of the island’s circumference was traveled, ice cream was enjoyed at the Grand Hotel, a carriage museum was found, the housing area for the full-time residents was toured, hours were spent at Fort Mackinac, lots of bike trails were followed and the very touristy downtown was thoroughly walked with samples of fudge procured.
At the end of the day, we took stock of what we had done and seen. The only thing we did not do was to cycle around the entire island. Tomorrow is a shorter travel window with a front coming later in the day that will stay through Thursday and Friday. The decision was easily made to leave early, perhaps cover over 50 miles to enter Lake Michigan and stay at Little Traverse Bay.
The morning was calm, cool and the tug was soaked with dew like it had been sprayed with a hose. The lines were dropped after breakfast and the tug navigated the channels markers through the West Entrance of the islands and went to Mackinac Island. The crossing was easy in a short chop with the fresh breeze on the bow. Andiamo arrived two hours later covering the 15 miles at its slower efficient speed.
The Michigan Department of Natural Resources operates the state-owned marina and put us on a fixed dock that was on the shore and close to the bathrooms. The marina was less than half full. Like most tourist areas, the crowds dropped considerably after Labor Day and this is the time that we typically visit parks.
Mackinac Island is a small island that had big impact on the area’s history because of its location. The island saw fur traders, a British Fort, then an American Fort and back to the British during the War of 1812, and then back to the Americans, a hub for commercial fishing, and then a tourist destination, and was the second National Park after Yellowstone but was later given to the State of Michigan when the army pulled out. A little known fact is the army was first custodians of the national parks; soldiers were the rangers. Going to Mackinac Island is a must-do.
What sets Mackinac Island a part from other tourist spots was the decision by the local government in the late 1800’s to ban the automobile. The island was developed around the cyclist and the pedestrian. About 500 people call the island home year round. About 500 people call the island home year round and 500 horses serve the carriage industry. fter October 15, only one ferry company will serve the island until January when the lake freezes and an ice bridge is created. Then, the locals use snowmobiles to get to the mainland.
By 11AM, the folding bikes were out and we went exploring. About half of the island’s circumference was traveled, ice cream was enjoyed at the Grand Hotel, a carriage museum was found, the housing area for the full-time residents was toured, hours were spent at Fort Mackinac, lots of bike trails were followed and the very touristy downtown was thoroughly walked with samples of fudge procured.
At the end of the day, we took stock of what we had done and seen. The only thing we did not do was to cycle around the entire island. Tomorrow is a shorter travel window with a front coming later in the day that will stay through Thursday and Friday. The decision was easily made to leave early, perhaps cover over 50 miles to enter Lake Michigan and stay at Little Traverse Bay.
"The Mitt" Of Michigan
Wednesday, September 3
The sunrise brought a fresh breeze from the southwest as Andiamo motored out of the bay and headed toward Mackinac Bridge, taking the one-foot chop nearly on the bow. For the first five miles, the tug was doing its newfound “comfortable chop” speed on 2150 RPM that created more push into the chop and raised the bow a bit more. The new definition of flat water on the Great Lakes is anything less than 2-foot waves with an additional chop thrown in.
The Mackinac Bridge is a 4-mile long suspension bridge that replaced the ferries in the late-1950’s at the narrowest gap that separates the Upper Peninsula from Northern Michigan and Lake Huron from Lake Michigan. After the bridge, Lake Michigan introduced itself with wind and waves that climbed to create two-foot and sometimes three-foot waves and the wind was in the low teens with gusts that created a smattering of whitecaps. Andiamo motored up to cover this 10-mile stretch.
This was Andiamo’s last significant westward movement and at the abandoned lighthouse, the tug turned south thus finishing the northern edge of the Great Loop. Now, we would start the western edge of this adventure that would end on the Gulf of Mexico. Heading south, the waves and the wind was from the southwest and this created the opportunity to effectively quarter them. The Michigan shoreline would be met at Good Hart point and Andiamo would follow the shoreline into Little Traverse Bay and cut across the bottom of it to the city marina at Petoskey. Here, the land blocked the wind and waves.
Andiamo had traveled 58 miles in 6 hours.
Petoskey was selected because of recommendations from other loopers and diesel was available. Andiamo had traveled 202 miles since Little Current, Ontario, used 3.7 gallons per hour and earned 2.3 miles per gallon; numbers that reflected more fast cruising, more waves and more wind. We were glad to pay less than $4 a gallon and enjoyed the moorage fees of less than $1.50 a foot.
The marina was about ¼ full and the employee said that they had a great season. He and another local boater both said that there is more wind in September on Lake Michigan and that the cruising window is generally in the morning because the wind and waves will build in the afternoon. Also, the wind is often from the west or southwest. We will miss not having the wind at our backs and going with God.
The docks in Michigan are generally fixed with the posts on the outside of the dock. Boaters do not deploy their fenders during the approach because these will foul on the posts. Instead, after the tug is secured to either cleats or posts, two of the fenders are hung horizontally from the tug to match up against two posts.
The bikes were set up and the afternoon was spent exploring the area. Cycling took us 3.5 miles to the Bay Harbor Marina and Hotel along a wonderful bike path that was a railroad track. The downtown was briefly explored and a few groceries were bought from an organic food store. The day was closed with steaks and salad and the movie was accompanied with strawberries and fudge.
The sunrise brought a fresh breeze from the southwest as Andiamo motored out of the bay and headed toward Mackinac Bridge, taking the one-foot chop nearly on the bow. For the first five miles, the tug was doing its newfound “comfortable chop” speed on 2150 RPM that created more push into the chop and raised the bow a bit more. The new definition of flat water on the Great Lakes is anything less than 2-foot waves with an additional chop thrown in.
The Mackinac Bridge is a 4-mile long suspension bridge that replaced the ferries in the late-1950’s at the narrowest gap that separates the Upper Peninsula from Northern Michigan and Lake Huron from Lake Michigan. After the bridge, Lake Michigan introduced itself with wind and waves that climbed to create two-foot and sometimes three-foot waves and the wind was in the low teens with gusts that created a smattering of whitecaps. Andiamo motored up to cover this 10-mile stretch.
This was Andiamo’s last significant westward movement and at the abandoned lighthouse, the tug turned south thus finishing the northern edge of the Great Loop. Now, we would start the western edge of this adventure that would end on the Gulf of Mexico. Heading south, the waves and the wind was from the southwest and this created the opportunity to effectively quarter them. The Michigan shoreline would be met at Good Hart point and Andiamo would follow the shoreline into Little Traverse Bay and cut across the bottom of it to the city marina at Petoskey. Here, the land blocked the wind and waves.
Andiamo had traveled 58 miles in 6 hours.
Petoskey was selected because of recommendations from other loopers and diesel was available. Andiamo had traveled 202 miles since Little Current, Ontario, used 3.7 gallons per hour and earned 2.3 miles per gallon; numbers that reflected more fast cruising, more waves and more wind. We were glad to pay less than $4 a gallon and enjoyed the moorage fees of less than $1.50 a foot.
The marina was about ¼ full and the employee said that they had a great season. He and another local boater both said that there is more wind in September on Lake Michigan and that the cruising window is generally in the morning because the wind and waves will build in the afternoon. Also, the wind is often from the west or southwest. We will miss not having the wind at our backs and going with God.
The docks in Michigan are generally fixed with the posts on the outside of the dock. Boaters do not deploy their fenders during the approach because these will foul on the posts. Instead, after the tug is secured to either cleats or posts, two of the fenders are hung horizontally from the tug to match up against two posts.
The bikes were set up and the afternoon was spent exploring the area. Cycling took us 3.5 miles to the Bay Harbor Marina and Hotel along a wonderful bike path that was a railroad track. The downtown was briefly explored and a few groceries were bought from an organic food store. The day was closed with steaks and salad and the movie was accompanied with strawberries and fudge.
Thursday, Friday and Saturday, September 4,5 and 6: PETOSKEY, HARBOR SPRINGS & CHARLEVOIX
The weather would set the tone for the day with a constant threat of rain of rain. The Doppler radar on WeatherBug was often checked as some rain cells would just miss us and others slammed into this region. The morning was spent exploring the downtown on foot, checking out local stores, buying locally made jam and discovering the Wright Brother’s Bicycle Repair Shop where their theories were developed and experiments were done on the elements of flying. This closed the loop as we had been to Kitty Hawk earlier on this trip and where they succeeded in flying.
Then, the local historical society’s museum was explored and it was really good; learning about Ernst Hemingway’s summers in this area, the town is named after the chief of the Indian tribe that inhabited this area, how tourism has been a dominant factor here since nearly the beginning and how the Passenger Pigeon was killed to extinction.
Petoskey is the commercial and retail hub of this area and has the hospital and the community college but the residential population remains at about 6,000 which has remained unchanged for decades. The community is vibrant and the downtown is interesting and healthy though no minorities were observed; diversity on any level seems to be absent. Fisherman were nearby and fishing the stream for salmon and we watched huge fish being caught.
The afternoon was spent reading, exploring and having terrific pie at a local pie shop. Then, a thunderstorm hit with pounding rain, wind gusts, lightning and thunder that would last for two hours. After it passed, the wind veered to the south and while watching the Seahawks opening game the wind slammed into the marina with gusts to 50 MPH. The blessing was being in the most southern part of the marina, and nearly against the shoreline provided more protection that being out in the open. With the bow facing north, the blasts of winds filled and pulled on the canvas in the cockpit, pushing the tug forward and stretching the dock lines. The next day, we learned that extensive damage was done to docks and boats near Harbor Springs that is a couple of miles away from Andiamo. Again and like so many times on this trip, by skill, luck and serendipity, we had dodged misfortune.
The next day, the heavy rain woke us up at 0400 hours and was gone by 0800 hours. Gusting winds and high waves made today a no-go day. A decision was made to rent a car from Enterprise and the day was spent exploring the area. Tomorrow was predicted to be a good travel day, so we may go a longer distance. A drive was taken through the Bay View neighborhood and its Victorian homes, to Charlevoix and its beautiful harbor on a separate lake, quaint shops and the Mushroom Houses that were built in the early 1900’s and designed by Earl Young. Groceries were bought, the shops were explored and the marina was walked. Then, a drive along the lakeshore that took us into farm country that ended at Harbor Springs where the shops were explored and the scenic drive through the “tunnel of trees” was done.
After the rental car was returned, a take-out pizza was enjoyed with Michigan made craft beers and the evening was closed with a movie.
The next day we were reminded that all plans are subject to change, they are advisory and not commands. Such was the travel plans for the day. Contrary to multiple sources of weather forecasts, the winds and waves did not do what the computer models and the scientists predicted; a reminder that God is in charge. The sound of the wind in the rigging and the side-to-side gentle swaying of the tug said that the wind at sunrise were not less than 10 MPH, it was substantially more. Over coffee and before breakfast, the nearby Grand Traverse Buoy was checked and it reported 3-foot waves, wind speed of 15 miles per hour with gusts to 20 MPH. This was supposed to happen in the late afternoon, after we were in Leland, and 50 miles away.
Over the course of the day, we had great conversations with local boaters who told us that September is like this; clear days, temperatures in the 70’s and a building wind that has the least speed at sunrise. Dock walkers stopped to ask about the tug and our trip. Items were ordered over the Internet and will be shipped to Holland, Michigan. Walks were taken and data was watched with the hope that the wind would lie down; it only continued to build and eased hours after sunset.
No matter how many times we talked about travel objectives and checked forecasts, Lake Michigan reminded us of who is really in charge.
We will see what tomorrow brings.
The weather would set the tone for the day with a constant threat of rain of rain. The Doppler radar on WeatherBug was often checked as some rain cells would just miss us and others slammed into this region. The morning was spent exploring the downtown on foot, checking out local stores, buying locally made jam and discovering the Wright Brother’s Bicycle Repair Shop where their theories were developed and experiments were done on the elements of flying. This closed the loop as we had been to Kitty Hawk earlier on this trip and where they succeeded in flying.
Then, the local historical society’s museum was explored and it was really good; learning about Ernst Hemingway’s summers in this area, the town is named after the chief of the Indian tribe that inhabited this area, how tourism has been a dominant factor here since nearly the beginning and how the Passenger Pigeon was killed to extinction.
Petoskey is the commercial and retail hub of this area and has the hospital and the community college but the residential population remains at about 6,000 which has remained unchanged for decades. The community is vibrant and the downtown is interesting and healthy though no minorities were observed; diversity on any level seems to be absent. Fisherman were nearby and fishing the stream for salmon and we watched huge fish being caught.
The afternoon was spent reading, exploring and having terrific pie at a local pie shop. Then, a thunderstorm hit with pounding rain, wind gusts, lightning and thunder that would last for two hours. After it passed, the wind veered to the south and while watching the Seahawks opening game the wind slammed into the marina with gusts to 50 MPH. The blessing was being in the most southern part of the marina, and nearly against the shoreline provided more protection that being out in the open. With the bow facing north, the blasts of winds filled and pulled on the canvas in the cockpit, pushing the tug forward and stretching the dock lines. The next day, we learned that extensive damage was done to docks and boats near Harbor Springs that is a couple of miles away from Andiamo. Again and like so many times on this trip, by skill, luck and serendipity, we had dodged misfortune.
The next day, the heavy rain woke us up at 0400 hours and was gone by 0800 hours. Gusting winds and high waves made today a no-go day. A decision was made to rent a car from Enterprise and the day was spent exploring the area. Tomorrow was predicted to be a good travel day, so we may go a longer distance. A drive was taken through the Bay View neighborhood and its Victorian homes, to Charlevoix and its beautiful harbor on a separate lake, quaint shops and the Mushroom Houses that were built in the early 1900’s and designed by Earl Young. Groceries were bought, the shops were explored and the marina was walked. Then, a drive along the lakeshore that took us into farm country that ended at Harbor Springs where the shops were explored and the scenic drive through the “tunnel of trees” was done.
After the rental car was returned, a take-out pizza was enjoyed with Michigan made craft beers and the evening was closed with a movie.
The next day we were reminded that all plans are subject to change, they are advisory and not commands. Such was the travel plans for the day. Contrary to multiple sources of weather forecasts, the winds and waves did not do what the computer models and the scientists predicted; a reminder that God is in charge. The sound of the wind in the rigging and the side-to-side gentle swaying of the tug said that the wind at sunrise were not less than 10 MPH, it was substantially more. Over coffee and before breakfast, the nearby Grand Traverse Buoy was checked and it reported 3-foot waves, wind speed of 15 miles per hour with gusts to 20 MPH. This was supposed to happen in the late afternoon, after we were in Leland, and 50 miles away.
Over the course of the day, we had great conversations with local boaters who told us that September is like this; clear days, temperatures in the 70’s and a building wind that has the least speed at sunrise. Dock walkers stopped to ask about the tug and our trip. Items were ordered over the Internet and will be shipped to Holland, Michigan. Walks were taken and data was watched with the hope that the wind would lie down; it only continued to build and eased hours after sunset.
No matter how many times we talked about travel objectives and checked forecasts, Lake Michigan reminded us of who is really in charge.
We will see what tomorrow brings.
Sunday, September 7: LELAND
With low expectations about the prospect of leaving, the morning greeted us with cool temperatures, clear skies, and the water had one to two foot wind waves that were caused by a 15-mile per hour wind; it was a go-day with the options of the destination being Charlevoix, Northport Harbor and Leland.
Leaving at sunrise, Andiamo hugged the southern shore of Little Traverse Bay at its slow cruising speed until the line of white caps was crossed. Then and for the rest of the cruise, the tug took us at 13 MPH with the bow up to minimize spray over the cabin. At nine mile point and those that followed, the course incrementally shifted from west to nearly south.
At Charlevoix, Andiamo continued onward because the ride was safe though not completely comfortable. Crossing the 13-mile wide Traverse Bay provided the roughest ride of the day with occasional 4 foot waves because the southerly waves had nearly 30 miles of bay to grow in height. At the turn to Northport, the decision was to continue on to Leland as the waves had shortened. The boat handling strategy was to quarter the waves, to find that balance between the bow pitching up and down and the tug rolling from side to side. Effective quartering means to find the blend of both, taking the waves at roughly a 45-degree angle.
The Town of Leland is at the Leland River and a 10-foot high rock breakwater that nearly encloses it on all sides protects the marina. This marina, like many others, was initially funded by a combination of federal and state funds and then turned over to the local government to own and operate.
Andiamo had traveled 51 miles in 5 hours.
This town of 2,000 was bustling with tourism activity as the streets were full of cars and the sidewalks and shops were busy with pedestrians. There was a synergy happening with passenger ferry service to the Manitou Island that is operated by the National Park Service as part of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, historic Fishtown that is a collection of a dozen wood shanties, once used by fisherman, on the river that sells t-shirts and gifts, and the town’s retail that specializes in art and specialty gifts that are related to the area.
The ferry arrived and the streets were filled with backpackers who had brought everything to camp on the wilderness islands. Time was spent at a city park off the main road where monarch butterflies were feeding. Shops were explored, galleries visited and ice cream was sampled.
Talked with Pat and Susan who are local boaters from the Green Bay area in their Cape Dory 28. Discussions about what makes a travel day on this lake and where to be on Wednesday and Thursday when a huge blow is predicted to come through with sustained gale force winds and waves of 13 feet.
The challenges of boating on Lake Michigan have dampened our enjoyment of cruising on this part of the trip. The tug is the means to get from one safe harbor to the next; sometimes boating is like that.
With low expectations about the prospect of leaving, the morning greeted us with cool temperatures, clear skies, and the water had one to two foot wind waves that were caused by a 15-mile per hour wind; it was a go-day with the options of the destination being Charlevoix, Northport Harbor and Leland.
Leaving at sunrise, Andiamo hugged the southern shore of Little Traverse Bay at its slow cruising speed until the line of white caps was crossed. Then and for the rest of the cruise, the tug took us at 13 MPH with the bow up to minimize spray over the cabin. At nine mile point and those that followed, the course incrementally shifted from west to nearly south.
At Charlevoix, Andiamo continued onward because the ride was safe though not completely comfortable. Crossing the 13-mile wide Traverse Bay provided the roughest ride of the day with occasional 4 foot waves because the southerly waves had nearly 30 miles of bay to grow in height. At the turn to Northport, the decision was to continue on to Leland as the waves had shortened. The boat handling strategy was to quarter the waves, to find that balance between the bow pitching up and down and the tug rolling from side to side. Effective quartering means to find the blend of both, taking the waves at roughly a 45-degree angle.
The Town of Leland is at the Leland River and a 10-foot high rock breakwater that nearly encloses it on all sides protects the marina. This marina, like many others, was initially funded by a combination of federal and state funds and then turned over to the local government to own and operate.
Andiamo had traveled 51 miles in 5 hours.
This town of 2,000 was bustling with tourism activity as the streets were full of cars and the sidewalks and shops were busy with pedestrians. There was a synergy happening with passenger ferry service to the Manitou Island that is operated by the National Park Service as part of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, historic Fishtown that is a collection of a dozen wood shanties, once used by fisherman, on the river that sells t-shirts and gifts, and the town’s retail that specializes in art and specialty gifts that are related to the area.
The ferry arrived and the streets were filled with backpackers who had brought everything to camp on the wilderness islands. Time was spent at a city park off the main road where monarch butterflies were feeding. Shops were explored, galleries visited and ice cream was sampled.
Talked with Pat and Susan who are local boaters from the Green Bay area in their Cape Dory 28. Discussions about what makes a travel day on this lake and where to be on Wednesday and Thursday when a huge blow is predicted to come through with sustained gale force winds and waves of 13 feet.
The challenges of boating on Lake Michigan have dampened our enjoyment of cruising on this part of the trip. The tug is the means to get from one safe harbor to the next; sometimes boating is like that.
Monday, September 8: FRANKFORT
Before sunrise, the wave and wind data at the Lake Michigan North Buoy showed it was a travel day, do-able but not comfortable. Andiamo left Leland at its slow cruising speed and left the breakwater into one two foot wind waves from the south and entered Good Harbor Bay as the BMW engine warmed up and as the tug rolled and bounced. Then, the tug accelerated to 13 MPH to make the ride more comfortable. Traveling the length of Lake Michigan would use more fuel than any part of this trip and we were resigned to it because safety is not a budget decision.
Andiamo went around Pyramid Point missing the marked shoals where the waves increased to more three and four footers causing more spray over the cabin. Then Sleeping Bear Point was aimed for but and we tucked into Platte Bay for protection against the wind waves. To get to the lighthouse at Betsie Point required a zigzag pattern to keep the waves from being the tug’s bow. The huge sand dunes of Sleep Bear National Lakeshore and the adjacent state park were prominent before and after the lighthouse. Five miles later, Andiamo turned into the entrance to the breakwater at Frankfurt. The marina is well protected being up a bay and is a ¼ mile from the main lake. Andiamo had traveled 42 miles in 4 hours and arrived at the town marina where it would be the only boat that arrived on this day.
All the spray dosing the cabin has made a nuisance leak in the mid-cabin berth a higher priority to find. That task would probably happen in the next day or two, as we need to hunker down because of forecasted storm.
After lunch, the windows received another application of Rain-X that minimizes the need for the windshield wipers. Tomorrow looks a possible travel day. We will check the data at sunrise and make a decision to go at least to Manistee and if the conditions remain good, to go on to Ludington because both harbors offer the kind of protection that we are looking for.
We took a walk, looking for Pat and Susan from Edgar and found them at the adjacent marina. The bulk of the afternoon was spent in the cockpit enjoying their company.
Frankfurt is home to 1,200 people and has a downtown retail district of four blocks. Like Petoskey, Charlevoix, and Leland, it is part of Michigan’s system of refuge harbors. These are marinas that were funded by the federal and state to create safe harbors on Lake Michigan that are spaced between 40 and 10 miles a part. The evening was closed with a movie and served with brownies.
Before sunrise, the wave and wind data at the Lake Michigan North Buoy showed it was a travel day, do-able but not comfortable. Andiamo left Leland at its slow cruising speed and left the breakwater into one two foot wind waves from the south and entered Good Harbor Bay as the BMW engine warmed up and as the tug rolled and bounced. Then, the tug accelerated to 13 MPH to make the ride more comfortable. Traveling the length of Lake Michigan would use more fuel than any part of this trip and we were resigned to it because safety is not a budget decision.
Andiamo went around Pyramid Point missing the marked shoals where the waves increased to more three and four footers causing more spray over the cabin. Then Sleeping Bear Point was aimed for but and we tucked into Platte Bay for protection against the wind waves. To get to the lighthouse at Betsie Point required a zigzag pattern to keep the waves from being the tug’s bow. The huge sand dunes of Sleep Bear National Lakeshore and the adjacent state park were prominent before and after the lighthouse. Five miles later, Andiamo turned into the entrance to the breakwater at Frankfurt. The marina is well protected being up a bay and is a ¼ mile from the main lake. Andiamo had traveled 42 miles in 4 hours and arrived at the town marina where it would be the only boat that arrived on this day.
All the spray dosing the cabin has made a nuisance leak in the mid-cabin berth a higher priority to find. That task would probably happen in the next day or two, as we need to hunker down because of forecasted storm.
After lunch, the windows received another application of Rain-X that minimizes the need for the windshield wipers. Tomorrow looks a possible travel day. We will check the data at sunrise and make a decision to go at least to Manistee and if the conditions remain good, to go on to Ludington because both harbors offer the kind of protection that we are looking for.
We took a walk, looking for Pat and Susan from Edgar and found them at the adjacent marina. The bulk of the afternoon was spent in the cockpit enjoying their company.
Frankfurt is home to 1,200 people and has a downtown retail district of four blocks. Like Petoskey, Charlevoix, and Leland, it is part of Michigan’s system of refuge harbors. These are marinas that were funded by the federal and state to create safe harbors on Lake Michigan that are spaced between 40 and 10 miles a part. The evening was closed with a movie and served with brownies.
HalfWay Down Lake Michigan: Three Days in Ludington
Tuesday, September 9
In the dark before sunrise, three center-console fishing boats were trolling the Frankfort's inner harbor. Their running lights were slowly sliding across the flat and calm water with the bright full moon behind them on the western horizon. This refuge harbor is so well protected from the lake that the weather at the dock is deceptively calm while the lake can be raging. The data showed that the wind and waves were do-able, again not comfortable cruising, but this is September on Lake Michigan and you have to play the hand that you are dealt.
After oatmeal and coffee, the lines were dropped and Andiamo left Frankfurt a few minutes after 0700 hours and followed a 40-foot cruising trawler with a tall flybridge into the canal and through the breakwater into Lake Michigan. Andiamo was greeted with three to four foot waves with a stiff wind from the southwest and none of this was forecasted. The tug had not warmed up to its operating temperature, so the speed was kept down and the tug climbed the steep waves and would drop off the other side.
The trawler accelerated to its hull speed of about 7.5 knots and was slowly plowing through waves but no spray was going over its cabin. Unexpectedly, the trawler slowed, turned around and went back into the calm of Frankfurt’s harbor that was behind the breakwater. The captain and crew elected to cruise another day. We had our doubts about continuing but those evaporated in about 20 minutes when the higher waves disappeared.
Arcadia Lake is another harbor of refuge and quickly came into view because it is only 10 miles from Frankfort and this is followed by Portage Lake in another 10 miles. The lake conditions were inconsistent and because we have low expectations, there was no surprise or frustration. Sometimes the water was the predicted two foot waves or less and then there would be 30 minutes of three and four footers.
Manistee was the first option to end the day because it is great harbor to ride out the predicted gale force winds on Wednesday. At the harbor entrance, Andiamo’s crew agreed that the water conditions were acceptable to continue knowing that once we passed the Big Stable Point and its lighthouse, we would be totally exposed to the waves that originated a hundred miles away and the ride could be worse. Manistee to Ludington was another 25 miles and Andiamo would cover that in two hours and the tug would be off the lake before noon.
The waves from Big Stable Point that is near Ludington State Park were consistently higher and tested the skill of effective quartering. The tug tacked or zigzagged across the swells and white caps to finally surf the swells through the entrance of Ludington’s breakwater. In moments, the tug went from rising and swaying at 12 MPH to sedately moving at 5 MPH in flat water.
Andiamo had traveled 54 miles in 5 hours.
We took a slip at Ludington’s Town Marina that was less than half full and decided that the slip and the marina would be adequate for tomorrow’s blow provided that the cockpit canvass was removed. The gale would pack sustained winds of 35 and gusts of 50 for 6 hours from the southeast and then veer to the west. Putting Andiamo’s bow into the south would be preferred but the marina only has slips that are east-west aligned. The wind would push the tug away from the dock, which is preferred.
After lunch, the bikes were set up and we explored this town of 6,000. I found a Radio Shack to replace the mouse that died. Laurie found the children’s museum and a decent coffee house. The bikes took us to the beautiful beach that was well used for mid-week and the scene could have been the Atlantic Ocean rather than a lake. The perimeter of the harbor was cycled even though the path said “No Bikes” because these are summer time rules and simply do not apply when no one is around. Ludington has a wonderful sculpture park of items related to its history.
We met Jeff and Sue from Midland, Ontario who are doing the loop on a Mainship 34. We had cocktails on our boat and enjoyed their company. A look at the map showed that Andiamo is about half down Lake Michigan. Chicken was grilled and served with a salad. Afterwards, more lines were added, flags were removed, and thoughts of the coming storm that is sweeping across the great plains, spawning tornadoes, severe winds, rain and hail.
In the dark before sunrise, three center-console fishing boats were trolling the Frankfort's inner harbor. Their running lights were slowly sliding across the flat and calm water with the bright full moon behind them on the western horizon. This refuge harbor is so well protected from the lake that the weather at the dock is deceptively calm while the lake can be raging. The data showed that the wind and waves were do-able, again not comfortable cruising, but this is September on Lake Michigan and you have to play the hand that you are dealt.
After oatmeal and coffee, the lines were dropped and Andiamo left Frankfurt a few minutes after 0700 hours and followed a 40-foot cruising trawler with a tall flybridge into the canal and through the breakwater into Lake Michigan. Andiamo was greeted with three to four foot waves with a stiff wind from the southwest and none of this was forecasted. The tug had not warmed up to its operating temperature, so the speed was kept down and the tug climbed the steep waves and would drop off the other side.
The trawler accelerated to its hull speed of about 7.5 knots and was slowly plowing through waves but no spray was going over its cabin. Unexpectedly, the trawler slowed, turned around and went back into the calm of Frankfurt’s harbor that was behind the breakwater. The captain and crew elected to cruise another day. We had our doubts about continuing but those evaporated in about 20 minutes when the higher waves disappeared.
Arcadia Lake is another harbor of refuge and quickly came into view because it is only 10 miles from Frankfort and this is followed by Portage Lake in another 10 miles. The lake conditions were inconsistent and because we have low expectations, there was no surprise or frustration. Sometimes the water was the predicted two foot waves or less and then there would be 30 minutes of three and four footers.
Manistee was the first option to end the day because it is great harbor to ride out the predicted gale force winds on Wednesday. At the harbor entrance, Andiamo’s crew agreed that the water conditions were acceptable to continue knowing that once we passed the Big Stable Point and its lighthouse, we would be totally exposed to the waves that originated a hundred miles away and the ride could be worse. Manistee to Ludington was another 25 miles and Andiamo would cover that in two hours and the tug would be off the lake before noon.
The waves from Big Stable Point that is near Ludington State Park were consistently higher and tested the skill of effective quartering. The tug tacked or zigzagged across the swells and white caps to finally surf the swells through the entrance of Ludington’s breakwater. In moments, the tug went from rising and swaying at 12 MPH to sedately moving at 5 MPH in flat water.
Andiamo had traveled 54 miles in 5 hours.
We took a slip at Ludington’s Town Marina that was less than half full and decided that the slip and the marina would be adequate for tomorrow’s blow provided that the cockpit canvass was removed. The gale would pack sustained winds of 35 and gusts of 50 for 6 hours from the southeast and then veer to the west. Putting Andiamo’s bow into the south would be preferred but the marina only has slips that are east-west aligned. The wind would push the tug away from the dock, which is preferred.
After lunch, the bikes were set up and we explored this town of 6,000. I found a Radio Shack to replace the mouse that died. Laurie found the children’s museum and a decent coffee house. The bikes took us to the beautiful beach that was well used for mid-week and the scene could have been the Atlantic Ocean rather than a lake. The perimeter of the harbor was cycled even though the path said “No Bikes” because these are summer time rules and simply do not apply when no one is around. Ludington has a wonderful sculpture park of items related to its history.
We met Jeff and Sue from Midland, Ontario who are doing the loop on a Mainship 34. We had cocktails on our boat and enjoyed their company. A look at the map showed that Andiamo is about half down Lake Michigan. Chicken was grilled and served with a salad. Afterwards, more lines were added, flags were removed, and thoughts of the coming storm that is sweeping across the great plains, spawning tornadoes, severe winds, rain and hail.
Wednesday, September 10,
This was a windy and rainy day where the forecast was about right. The good news was the 50 MPH gusts did not materialize. For the majority of the day, the wind came from the southeast. During the mid-afternoon, the wind moved to the southwest and at dinnertime, it moved to the northwest and intensified to a sustained 30 MPH.
This was a marina day of reading, communicating, and tweaking the website. Laurie made soup and we walked to the specialty food store between storms.
Today’s boat project was evaluating the water leak in the mid-cabin berth. The wall covering was removed and paper towels were taped to the wall to detect the direction of the leak. Within an hour, the source of the leak was most probably the bolts of the mid-cleat. The porthole and the bolts for the roof step were all dry. Accessing cleat’s bolts will involve removing shelves, the cubby storage box and a couple of interior panels. Then, the cleat can be removed, cleaned and re-bedded; a job for another day when Andiamo is docked on its’ port side. This is not overly complex; all that is needed is time, patience and a bit of caulk.
We had beer and pizza on Jeff and Susan’s Mainship 34. The marina employee had gone home early due to the storm and locked the boater’s lounge up. This was odd because marina employees would be more important in a storm, not less. The weather did not stop the pizza deliveryman from braving the wind and rain. We enjoyed their stories and the pizza was great.
The next day, rain and wind continued through the night blowing the tug against the extra fenders. The morning brought the coolest temperatures that had been experienced in months, in the low 50’s, and required the diesel cabin heater to run most of the day. Though the Doppler radar did not show it, a light rain continued throughout most of the day and the northwest wind ranged from the high teens to the low 20’s miles per hour.
Laurie made a corn and potato chowder soup and bread from scratch that was enjoyed at lunch. Laundry was done, writing was worked on, cards were played and the news was read. In a break in the weather, we walked to the beach to experience the 25 MPH winds, watched the city push sand out of the parking lot, and were awed by the waves trying to defeat the breakwater. Bananas were bought and the menu at the Jamestown Brewing Company was reviewed, as this would be the dinner destination.
The weather data was explored and the contradictions were discussed. How can one source say the waves at a buoy are 16 feet while another source says the same buoy is reporting the waves as 4 feet? There may be a travel window Friday and Saturday afternoon. Any progress southward is a good thing. However, the loopers on the Illinois River have been stuck for a week with severe weather and the Mississippi River is near flood stage and that would keep the loopers stuck for another week.
We enjoyed the short walk to the brewery for good hamburgers and excellent beer. Then, the news was streamed to a laptop and the evening was closed with a movie while the sun set behind a thick cloud cover and light drizzle.
This was a windy and rainy day where the forecast was about right. The good news was the 50 MPH gusts did not materialize. For the majority of the day, the wind came from the southeast. During the mid-afternoon, the wind moved to the southwest and at dinnertime, it moved to the northwest and intensified to a sustained 30 MPH.
This was a marina day of reading, communicating, and tweaking the website. Laurie made soup and we walked to the specialty food store between storms.
Today’s boat project was evaluating the water leak in the mid-cabin berth. The wall covering was removed and paper towels were taped to the wall to detect the direction of the leak. Within an hour, the source of the leak was most probably the bolts of the mid-cleat. The porthole and the bolts for the roof step were all dry. Accessing cleat’s bolts will involve removing shelves, the cubby storage box and a couple of interior panels. Then, the cleat can be removed, cleaned and re-bedded; a job for another day when Andiamo is docked on its’ port side. This is not overly complex; all that is needed is time, patience and a bit of caulk.
We had beer and pizza on Jeff and Susan’s Mainship 34. The marina employee had gone home early due to the storm and locked the boater’s lounge up. This was odd because marina employees would be more important in a storm, not less. The weather did not stop the pizza deliveryman from braving the wind and rain. We enjoyed their stories and the pizza was great.
The next day, rain and wind continued through the night blowing the tug against the extra fenders. The morning brought the coolest temperatures that had been experienced in months, in the low 50’s, and required the diesel cabin heater to run most of the day. Though the Doppler radar did not show it, a light rain continued throughout most of the day and the northwest wind ranged from the high teens to the low 20’s miles per hour.
Laurie made a corn and potato chowder soup and bread from scratch that was enjoyed at lunch. Laundry was done, writing was worked on, cards were played and the news was read. In a break in the weather, we walked to the beach to experience the 25 MPH winds, watched the city push sand out of the parking lot, and were awed by the waves trying to defeat the breakwater. Bananas were bought and the menu at the Jamestown Brewing Company was reviewed, as this would be the dinner destination.
The weather data was explored and the contradictions were discussed. How can one source say the waves at a buoy are 16 feet while another source says the same buoy is reporting the waves as 4 feet? There may be a travel window Friday and Saturday afternoon. Any progress southward is a good thing. However, the loopers on the Illinois River have been stuck for a week with severe weather and the Mississippi River is near flood stage and that would keep the loopers stuck for another week.
We enjoyed the short walk to the brewery for good hamburgers and excellent beer. Then, the news was streamed to a laptop and the evening was closed with a movie while the sun set behind a thick cloud cover and light drizzle.
Friday, September 12: TRAVEL DAY TO GRAND HAVEN
An unexpected travel day is when the weather and the lake conditions are not what are forecasted. The morning was cool, an extension of one of the coldest nights since March and required the heavier blanket coming out of deep storage. Fall was in the air and it felt like October in the PNW. The clouds were low, threatening rain at any time, and yet the wind was light causing the harbor to be completely flat. Jeff bicycled to the beach and confirmed what the breakwater looked like through the binoculars; the lake was relatively tame.
After filling up with diesel and pumping out, Andiamo headed out to turn south with the destination options as Pentwater, White Lake, or Muskegon. The notion was to stick Andiamo’s nose out and make a decision. There were virtually no wind waves; just three foot high rolling swells, coming from the north that Andiamo could quarter-surf down the shoreline.
After running at nine miles per hour for an hour and the tug sedately swaying from side to side and the swells would run under the it, Andiamo found that going the faster cruising speed resulted in a much smoother ride and we were going nearly the same speed as the swells. Andiamo scooted past Pentwater and White Lake. After passing Little Stable Point, the swells were nearly gone and at White Lake, the speed was dropped to the tug’s efficient cruising speed of 8 MPH.
For the first time in nearly two weeks, we were enjoying cruising again as the mild winds and low swells gently pushed the tug along, or “Going with God,” as the miles easily clicked by and passing Muskegon to take us to Grand Haven. Andiamo skirted the edges of a rainstorm that would soak most of the north Michigan peninsula. Laurie called the Grand Haven Marina and was surprised when we got the last slip because their annual Salmon Fest was this weekend as the drizzle and light showers started. The rain would last all evening and dampen the evening’s activities at Salmon Fest.
Andiamo travelled 67 miles in 7 hours and it was easy and comfortable.
An unexpected travel day is when the weather and the lake conditions are not what are forecasted. The morning was cool, an extension of one of the coldest nights since March and required the heavier blanket coming out of deep storage. Fall was in the air and it felt like October in the PNW. The clouds were low, threatening rain at any time, and yet the wind was light causing the harbor to be completely flat. Jeff bicycled to the beach and confirmed what the breakwater looked like through the binoculars; the lake was relatively tame.
After filling up with diesel and pumping out, Andiamo headed out to turn south with the destination options as Pentwater, White Lake, or Muskegon. The notion was to stick Andiamo’s nose out and make a decision. There were virtually no wind waves; just three foot high rolling swells, coming from the north that Andiamo could quarter-surf down the shoreline.
After running at nine miles per hour for an hour and the tug sedately swaying from side to side and the swells would run under the it, Andiamo found that going the faster cruising speed resulted in a much smoother ride and we were going nearly the same speed as the swells. Andiamo scooted past Pentwater and White Lake. After passing Little Stable Point, the swells were nearly gone and at White Lake, the speed was dropped to the tug’s efficient cruising speed of 8 MPH.
For the first time in nearly two weeks, we were enjoying cruising again as the mild winds and low swells gently pushed the tug along, or “Going with God,” as the miles easily clicked by and passing Muskegon to take us to Grand Haven. Andiamo skirted the edges of a rainstorm that would soak most of the north Michigan peninsula. Laurie called the Grand Haven Marina and was surprised when we got the last slip because their annual Salmon Fest was this weekend as the drizzle and light showers started. The rain would last all evening and dampen the evening’s activities at Salmon Fest.
Andiamo travelled 67 miles in 7 hours and it was easy and comfortable.
Saturday, September 13: GRAND HAVEN
After breakfast, the waterfront started to come alive and Andiamo was on the front porch of the Farmer’s Market and next to the walking and bike path. We had several conversations with people who were intrigued by the tug, our homeport and the looper burgee. While Laurie explored the Farmer’s Market to find local produce, I worked on the stopping the leak to the mid-cabin berth. The mid-cleat was not the source so the next suspect was the rub rail. The rub rail was disassembled on the dock and there was evidence that it had been taken apart before. Old screw holes that had not been filled were found. Those were taken care of and everything was put back together.
The notion of moving on to Holland was rejected because the data and the forecast was for four-foot waves. Also, Grand Haven needed to be explored and Salmon Fest experienced. The day was cool, breezy, and continued to have that bite that required cabin heat in the morning, jackets, hats and scarfs.
We had to leave before 1 PM as the slip was reserved. A neighbor told us about the Grand Haven Yacht Club and the possibility of slips being available though they do not advertise. Laurie walked over to their clubhouse and found a slip for Andiamo. After the tug was moved over, the folding bikes were set up and time was spent exploring the canal, the state park, and the downtown.
Grand Haven is home to a large Coast Guard Station and the town calls itself “Coast Guard City.” This station has the large motor lifeboats that are common on the Columbia River and illustrates how dangerous Lake Michigan can be. Grand Haven State Park is a huge paved parking lot that is striped to stack as many RV’s as possible. The staff was erecting rows of sand fences to hold the sand during the coming fall and winter storms. Grand Haven’s downtown is a vibrant five-block street. The city’s roots are common to most towns in this part of Michigan: fur trapping, lumber, fishing, and industry. The town’s economics would change as the resource was depleted. Today, about 10,000 live in Grand Haven, a 20% decline in the past decade. The majority of the employment is in various city, county and state governments and public services.
While Laurie explored Salmon Fest, I biked the canal and the shores of the waterway. The day was closed chicken on the grill and fresh beans and bread from the Farmers Market.
After breakfast, the waterfront started to come alive and Andiamo was on the front porch of the Farmer’s Market and next to the walking and bike path. We had several conversations with people who were intrigued by the tug, our homeport and the looper burgee. While Laurie explored the Farmer’s Market to find local produce, I worked on the stopping the leak to the mid-cabin berth. The mid-cleat was not the source so the next suspect was the rub rail. The rub rail was disassembled on the dock and there was evidence that it had been taken apart before. Old screw holes that had not been filled were found. Those were taken care of and everything was put back together.
The notion of moving on to Holland was rejected because the data and the forecast was for four-foot waves. Also, Grand Haven needed to be explored and Salmon Fest experienced. The day was cool, breezy, and continued to have that bite that required cabin heat in the morning, jackets, hats and scarfs.
We had to leave before 1 PM as the slip was reserved. A neighbor told us about the Grand Haven Yacht Club and the possibility of slips being available though they do not advertise. Laurie walked over to their clubhouse and found a slip for Andiamo. After the tug was moved over, the folding bikes were set up and time was spent exploring the canal, the state park, and the downtown.
Grand Haven is home to a large Coast Guard Station and the town calls itself “Coast Guard City.” This station has the large motor lifeboats that are common on the Columbia River and illustrates how dangerous Lake Michigan can be. Grand Haven State Park is a huge paved parking lot that is striped to stack as many RV’s as possible. The staff was erecting rows of sand fences to hold the sand during the coming fall and winter storms. Grand Haven’s downtown is a vibrant five-block street. The city’s roots are common to most towns in this part of Michigan: fur trapping, lumber, fishing, and industry. The town’s economics would change as the resource was depleted. Today, about 10,000 live in Grand Haven, a 20% decline in the past decade. The majority of the employment is in various city, county and state governments and public services.
While Laurie explored Salmon Fest, I biked the canal and the shores of the waterway. The day was closed chicken on the grill and fresh beans and bread from the Farmers Market.
Sunday, September 14: HOLLAND
The alarm went off before sunrise as we are employing the recipe to cruising on Lake Michigan: check the data just before leaving, leave early, and assess the lake conditions. The data checked is the South Michigan Buoy, looking for wave heights of less than two feet and Sailflow for wind speeds of 15 MPH or less that were close by. Andiamo did all of that and found the lake conditions were suitable for traveling with a one to two-foot wind-chop and almost no swells. The tug was accelerated to its chop-plowing speed of 2150 RPM’s that created a speed of 8.5 to 9 MPH and a fuel efficiency of three miles per gallon and uses three gallons per hour.
The destination was 23 miles away at Holland and Andiamo did it easily. Packages were waiting for us a Anchorage Marina and though the thought occurred to pick them up and scoot on down the shoreline, the two to three foot waves at Holland’s entrance breakwater made this the final destination. An hour later, the south wind intensified and remained until nearly sundown and confirmed the decision.
Holland is on Lake Macatawa and the connection to Lake Michigan is like all of these harbors, a channel with rock or sheet steel on the banks with a long breakwater extending into Lake Michigan. Lake Macatawa is large enough for sailboats to use it as racing site and the shoreline is developed with several marinas, high-end houses and resorts on the shore. Anchorage Marina is on Big Bay and is a private condominium association and yacht club and boat owners purchase the slip. Transient moorage are slips that are for sale or are set side as a revenue source.
The fee was reasonable and the packages had arrived. Two of them were new director’s chairs because after nearly a year, the old ones were shot from exposure to sun and water. Another package was the charts of the route from Chicago to Paducah, Kentucky; the next segment that may take nearly a month to do.
We were on a hunt for propane to fill in the 10 pound bottle that is used for the oven and stove. Weighing the tank showed it less than a quarter full. The last time it was filled was on the Hudson River in July. Great efficiency considering it is used every day. The marina staff said that a nearby campground sold propane. So, the tank was tied onto the back of a folding bicycle and it looked like a jet engine or a small keg of beer. The Oak Harbor Campground was very close but the office and store was closed on Sunday; propane would have to wait for the next stop.
The ride and exploration continued on a great and level bike path out to Holland State Park where ice cream was on sale for two-for-one as the store was closing for the season. On a sunny and breezy Sunday afternoon, fishermen were on the breakwater, sailboats were racing on Lake Michigan, and radio-controlled mini-dune buggies had much of the beach to themselves. The bike ride back was through marinas where a Ranger 25 was found and we continued into the high-end neighborhood of country mansions on the lakeshore.
Back at the tug, frustrating efforts were made to stream the Seahawks football game that resulted in spam and adware on the laptop. The afternoon was closed with hamburgers on the grill and plans to perhaps take advantage of a limited travel window at sunrise and get to South Haven.
The alarm went off before sunrise as we are employing the recipe to cruising on Lake Michigan: check the data just before leaving, leave early, and assess the lake conditions. The data checked is the South Michigan Buoy, looking for wave heights of less than two feet and Sailflow for wind speeds of 15 MPH or less that were close by. Andiamo did all of that and found the lake conditions were suitable for traveling with a one to two-foot wind-chop and almost no swells. The tug was accelerated to its chop-plowing speed of 2150 RPM’s that created a speed of 8.5 to 9 MPH and a fuel efficiency of three miles per gallon and uses three gallons per hour.
The destination was 23 miles away at Holland and Andiamo did it easily. Packages were waiting for us a Anchorage Marina and though the thought occurred to pick them up and scoot on down the shoreline, the two to three foot waves at Holland’s entrance breakwater made this the final destination. An hour later, the south wind intensified and remained until nearly sundown and confirmed the decision.
Holland is on Lake Macatawa and the connection to Lake Michigan is like all of these harbors, a channel with rock or sheet steel on the banks with a long breakwater extending into Lake Michigan. Lake Macatawa is large enough for sailboats to use it as racing site and the shoreline is developed with several marinas, high-end houses and resorts on the shore. Anchorage Marina is on Big Bay and is a private condominium association and yacht club and boat owners purchase the slip. Transient moorage are slips that are for sale or are set side as a revenue source.
The fee was reasonable and the packages had arrived. Two of them were new director’s chairs because after nearly a year, the old ones were shot from exposure to sun and water. Another package was the charts of the route from Chicago to Paducah, Kentucky; the next segment that may take nearly a month to do.
We were on a hunt for propane to fill in the 10 pound bottle that is used for the oven and stove. Weighing the tank showed it less than a quarter full. The last time it was filled was on the Hudson River in July. Great efficiency considering it is used every day. The marina staff said that a nearby campground sold propane. So, the tank was tied onto the back of a folding bicycle and it looked like a jet engine or a small keg of beer. The Oak Harbor Campground was very close but the office and store was closed on Sunday; propane would have to wait for the next stop.
The ride and exploration continued on a great and level bike path out to Holland State Park where ice cream was on sale for two-for-one as the store was closing for the season. On a sunny and breezy Sunday afternoon, fishermen were on the breakwater, sailboats were racing on Lake Michigan, and radio-controlled mini-dune buggies had much of the beach to themselves. The bike ride back was through marinas where a Ranger 25 was found and we continued into the high-end neighborhood of country mansions on the lakeshore.
Back at the tug, frustrating efforts were made to stream the Seahawks football game that resulted in spam and adware on the laptop. The afternoon was closed with hamburgers on the grill and plans to perhaps take advantage of a limited travel window at sunrise and get to South Haven.
Monday, September 15: SAUGATUCK
Up before sunrise and the daybreak was witnessed over Lake Macatawa where the water was flat and calm. The rollers coming off Lake Michigan and coming down the channel was the first indicator that the weather data and forecasts would miss the mark. Outside the breakwater, the lake was mostly 3 and 4 foot swells coming from the west and wind-created chop coming from the south. The water was churned up and confused.
The tug’s low cruising speed was uncomfortable and the high cruising speed was better but reading the waves and constantly changing course to find the safest ride was a challenge. When judged wrong, a four-foot swell would roll into the tug’s beam. The rocking would spill everything that was loose and horizontal onto the floor. Saugatuck’s refuge harbor was about 9 miles away and that option was taken.
Riding and coming off the swells within Saugatuck’s narrow channel was like dismounting from a Ferris Wheel while it was in motion; slowing down as the channel became calm. The Saugatuck channel is S-shaped the ends at Lake Kalamazoo and the small town of shops and art galleries. Andiamo had arrived before the village was fully awake and took a slip at Sergeant Marina as Kyle, the dockmaster, was hoisting the “open” flag on the fuel dock.
Saugatuck is pricey as the moorage equaled Florida's rates of $2.50 per foot. The downtown is four blocks of vibrant shops and interesting places to explore. I spent the morning working on the Mac to remove the adware that infected every website while Laurie digested the cruising guides. The downtown was explored and enjoyed.
We were blessed with visits from Rich and Cheryll who have a Ranger 25, “Roam” whom we have known for several years and the owners of a Ranger 25 “Loop Hole” from Holland, MI. Kurt and his wife are planning to the start the loop soon. We had a long lunch, telling and listening to stories and enjoying their company. Rick and Cheryll took us to Holland to refill the propane tank and to buy groceries. We had done the same for them last winter in Florida. Hopefully, we will seem them in several weeks on the Tennessee River.
The afternoon was closed with stowing the supplies, doing a minor repair on the cabin door, and having a light dinner. The predictions for tomorrow and Wednesday are promising. Lake Michigan (or as a looper declared, Lake Bitch-a-gan) is like a two year old: will not follow directions, is unpredictable, and can throw a tantrum at the worst possible time.
Up before sunrise and the daybreak was witnessed over Lake Macatawa where the water was flat and calm. The rollers coming off Lake Michigan and coming down the channel was the first indicator that the weather data and forecasts would miss the mark. Outside the breakwater, the lake was mostly 3 and 4 foot swells coming from the west and wind-created chop coming from the south. The water was churned up and confused.
The tug’s low cruising speed was uncomfortable and the high cruising speed was better but reading the waves and constantly changing course to find the safest ride was a challenge. When judged wrong, a four-foot swell would roll into the tug’s beam. The rocking would spill everything that was loose and horizontal onto the floor. Saugatuck’s refuge harbor was about 9 miles away and that option was taken.
Riding and coming off the swells within Saugatuck’s narrow channel was like dismounting from a Ferris Wheel while it was in motion; slowing down as the channel became calm. The Saugatuck channel is S-shaped the ends at Lake Kalamazoo and the small town of shops and art galleries. Andiamo had arrived before the village was fully awake and took a slip at Sergeant Marina as Kyle, the dockmaster, was hoisting the “open” flag on the fuel dock.
Saugatuck is pricey as the moorage equaled Florida's rates of $2.50 per foot. The downtown is four blocks of vibrant shops and interesting places to explore. I spent the morning working on the Mac to remove the adware that infected every website while Laurie digested the cruising guides. The downtown was explored and enjoyed.
We were blessed with visits from Rich and Cheryll who have a Ranger 25, “Roam” whom we have known for several years and the owners of a Ranger 25 “Loop Hole” from Holland, MI. Kurt and his wife are planning to the start the loop soon. We had a long lunch, telling and listening to stories and enjoying their company. Rick and Cheryll took us to Holland to refill the propane tank and to buy groceries. We had done the same for them last winter in Florida. Hopefully, we will seem them in several weeks on the Tennessee River.
The afternoon was closed with stowing the supplies, doing a minor repair on the cabin door, and having a light dinner. The predictions for tomorrow and Wednesday are promising. Lake Michigan (or as a looper declared, Lake Bitch-a-gan) is like a two year old: will not follow directions, is unpredictable, and can throw a tantrum at the worst possible time.
Tuesday, September 16: ST. JOSEPH-BENTON HARBOR
The morning was cold with an outside temperature of 49 degrees. The air was still and though a dense fog advisory was in effect, the fog was gone where we were. All the data gave green lights to go. The long channel out to Lake Michigan was a mirror, being quiet and still, except for the occasional fisherman. Lake Michigan was tame but not flat like a mirror with one to three foot swells from the northwest. The two options for the destination was South Haven, about 22 miles and St. Joseph at 45 miles.
Andiamo was notched up to its chop-plowing speed and with the swells gently pushing on her starboard corner the tug flowed along at 8.5 MPH for the 5 hours. Quartering the swells made some side to side and a bit of bow to stern pitch but the movement was slow and comfortable. The autopilot did most of the work. As St. Joseph was approached the westerly wind picked up and the water was choppy and confused. The large clouds did not shed any rain, patches of blue sky stayed with us and the day warmed.
Laurie had found a very reasonable price for diesel at a marina deep inside the harbor. The channel was narrow and interesting as we slid past go-fast cruisers and fishing boats. After the diesel fill and pump-out, the tug found a slip at the West Basin Marina that is operated by the city. The marina is well protected, a great price at $1.35 a foot, the staff was friendly, and the laundry facilities were free and new.
Andiamo had traveled 48 miles in 5.5 hours.
Laurie met Jeff and Susan, whom we met in Ludington, and they went to the largest boating supply store in the Midwest. The afternoon was closed with hot dogs grilled on the BBQ and thoughts about making the 50-mile crossing to Chicago that would end this segment of the adventure.
The morning was cold with an outside temperature of 49 degrees. The air was still and though a dense fog advisory was in effect, the fog was gone where we were. All the data gave green lights to go. The long channel out to Lake Michigan was a mirror, being quiet and still, except for the occasional fisherman. Lake Michigan was tame but not flat like a mirror with one to three foot swells from the northwest. The two options for the destination was South Haven, about 22 miles and St. Joseph at 45 miles.
Andiamo was notched up to its chop-plowing speed and with the swells gently pushing on her starboard corner the tug flowed along at 8.5 MPH for the 5 hours. Quartering the swells made some side to side and a bit of bow to stern pitch but the movement was slow and comfortable. The autopilot did most of the work. As St. Joseph was approached the westerly wind picked up and the water was choppy and confused. The large clouds did not shed any rain, patches of blue sky stayed with us and the day warmed.
Laurie had found a very reasonable price for diesel at a marina deep inside the harbor. The channel was narrow and interesting as we slid past go-fast cruisers and fishing boats. After the diesel fill and pump-out, the tug found a slip at the West Basin Marina that is operated by the city. The marina is well protected, a great price at $1.35 a foot, the staff was friendly, and the laundry facilities were free and new.
Andiamo had traveled 48 miles in 5.5 hours.
Laurie met Jeff and Susan, whom we met in Ludington, and they went to the largest boating supply store in the Midwest. The afternoon was closed with hot dogs grilled on the BBQ and thoughts about making the 50-mile crossing to Chicago that would end this segment of the adventure.
Wednesday, September 17: THE CROSSING TO CHICAGO
The sunrise woke us and we started the day with the optimism of a fair crossing as the data from the buoys and the forecast was for nearly flat water. But, as I was outside and preparing Andiamo for the day’s journey, there was a moderate breeze that was moving the tree limbs and creating bite that went right through the clothing. That breeze would be the foretelling of the conditions to come.
The chartplotter created the magenta line of the route to Chicago, as there are no channel markers and no land in view for the first half of the 60-mile trip. Lake Michigan would introduce herself to us immediately after leaving the protection of the marina and she did so with a one-foot wind driven chop from the southwest. Jeff and Susan were several miles ahead and they reported that the chop was one to two feet high and was being easily quartered.
Andiamo beat through the chop for the first hour at its 2150 RPM speed of 8.5 MPH but as the chop and swells grew to one to three feet, the high speed cruising speed was needed to make the ride more comfortable. The swells and chop rose to 2 to 4 footers and that meant there were a few 5 footers. For 30 miles, Andiamo slogged through these with water occasionally going over the cabin, as Jeff said over the VHF radio, “You’re cleaning your canvas today.” Lake Michigan was giving us a good-bye punch.
Nearly four weeks of open water boating that began with the end of the Trent Severn Waterway, through the Georgian Bay, North Channel, the tip of Lake Huron and the last two weeks of Lake Michigan had made us better boaters. Like frogs that are slowly being boiled, we had adapted to these rougher waters. Two to four foot swells were described as, “Not all that bad,” as the spray went over the cabin and standing or walking in the cabin was a potentially dangerous activity because of the constant rolling and pitching.
At the half waypoint of 30 miles, we celebrated with chocolate and high-fives. Then, the skyline of Chicago’s tall buildings popped through the air pollution. The chartplotter was counting down the miles to the downtown marina and the time of arrival. We thought the Garmin had a hiccup when the time of arrival changed by an hour until the realization that Andiamo had crossed into the Central Time Zone. That was one of the benchmarks of this day as we had been in the Eastern Time Zone since the beginning.
At 15 miles to go, Lake Michigan rolled out her pleasant side with the swells flattening out and the wind chop slowing going away. Andiamo’s speed was reduced to her fuel efficiency speed of 1850 RPM and 8 miles per hour. With 5 miles to go, the lake was mirror flat and the only disturbance was the mild wake from other boats.
Andiamo arrived at the DuSable Harbor Marina, one of several that are operated by the Chicago Park District Harbors, and tied up at a slip used by transients on a floating dock. The fixed docks of Lake Michigan were behind Andiamo. We would learn later from a neighboring boater that loopers had used this slip for the last several weeks and they have enjoyed meeting boaters from throughout the country.
Chicago was beautiful with the clear skies, light on the buildings and more importantly, represented the end of dealing with Lake Michigan, the success of the crossing and weathering the storms that came at us. We were jubilant and celebrated with a toast of our current favorite beer.
Andiamo had traveled 62 miles in 6 hours
The sunrise woke us and we started the day with the optimism of a fair crossing as the data from the buoys and the forecast was for nearly flat water. But, as I was outside and preparing Andiamo for the day’s journey, there was a moderate breeze that was moving the tree limbs and creating bite that went right through the clothing. That breeze would be the foretelling of the conditions to come.
The chartplotter created the magenta line of the route to Chicago, as there are no channel markers and no land in view for the first half of the 60-mile trip. Lake Michigan would introduce herself to us immediately after leaving the protection of the marina and she did so with a one-foot wind driven chop from the southwest. Jeff and Susan were several miles ahead and they reported that the chop was one to two feet high and was being easily quartered.
Andiamo beat through the chop for the first hour at its 2150 RPM speed of 8.5 MPH but as the chop and swells grew to one to three feet, the high speed cruising speed was needed to make the ride more comfortable. The swells and chop rose to 2 to 4 footers and that meant there were a few 5 footers. For 30 miles, Andiamo slogged through these with water occasionally going over the cabin, as Jeff said over the VHF radio, “You’re cleaning your canvas today.” Lake Michigan was giving us a good-bye punch.
Nearly four weeks of open water boating that began with the end of the Trent Severn Waterway, through the Georgian Bay, North Channel, the tip of Lake Huron and the last two weeks of Lake Michigan had made us better boaters. Like frogs that are slowly being boiled, we had adapted to these rougher waters. Two to four foot swells were described as, “Not all that bad,” as the spray went over the cabin and standing or walking in the cabin was a potentially dangerous activity because of the constant rolling and pitching.
At the half waypoint of 30 miles, we celebrated with chocolate and high-fives. Then, the skyline of Chicago’s tall buildings popped through the air pollution. The chartplotter was counting down the miles to the downtown marina and the time of arrival. We thought the Garmin had a hiccup when the time of arrival changed by an hour until the realization that Andiamo had crossed into the Central Time Zone. That was one of the benchmarks of this day as we had been in the Eastern Time Zone since the beginning.
At 15 miles to go, Lake Michigan rolled out her pleasant side with the swells flattening out and the wind chop slowing going away. Andiamo’s speed was reduced to her fuel efficiency speed of 1850 RPM and 8 miles per hour. With 5 miles to go, the lake was mirror flat and the only disturbance was the mild wake from other boats.
Andiamo arrived at the DuSable Harbor Marina, one of several that are operated by the Chicago Park District Harbors, and tied up at a slip used by transients on a floating dock. The fixed docks of Lake Michigan were behind Andiamo. We would learn later from a neighboring boater that loopers had used this slip for the last several weeks and they have enjoyed meeting boaters from throughout the country.
Chicago was beautiful with the clear skies, light on the buildings and more importantly, represented the end of dealing with Lake Michigan, the success of the crossing and weathering the storms that came at us. We were jubilant and celebrated with a toast of our current favorite beer.
Andiamo had traveled 62 miles in 6 hours
Just for fun and other contradictions
Laurie and the local wildlife.
Laurie's alter-ego
Giving directions in Cedarville, Michigan
Free enterprise at work near the community's library.
This is real, on Mackinac Island. So, which is it?
This works, but no one the age of 30 knows how.
Employee parking on Mackinac Island
Police vehicle parking on Mackinac Island. A Police Chief's dream, little maintenance, few pursuits, few crashes, and the officers are fit.
Taken in a residential neighborhood on Mackinac Island
This is a walking and bike path. "No teaming?"
Teaming is a term from the 19th century that means horse drawn carriages.
Teaming is a term from the 19th century that means horse drawn carriages.
A "Pharmacy" that does not sell drugs.
This car is a registered boat. Not many were made. After all, like all compromises, it is not really good at either purpose.
Self-explanatory
The word on the fourth line is either a Michigan way of spelling or is an indictment of the education system.
Where oh where is the ferry, when it is not at either terminal and it is connected by a chain?
All the wisdom you every need to know is on these two windows
This is an eye-catcher of public art on St. Joseph's harbor channel. No meaning offered and none was asked for.
