ST. AUGUSTINE TO JACKSONVILLE: HIGHWAY OF RIVERS
Friday, March 7
We awoke early with our thumb on the abort button to not leave. The cloud cover was solid and nearly on the water and the wind was a steady 10-12 that caused a light chop. The air temperature was 50 and the wind chill lowered that. We had been tied to the marina for longer than we had planned and it was comfortable to stay. Should we wait for a better weather window? All of our prior experience in the Pacific Northwest told me that these are great conditions and we are especially more comfortable in doing these conditions in the tug.
At 8:15 AM, the tug was backed out of its slip and the current was nearly slack but that was going to change quickly as the flooding tide would raise the water level by 4 feet in 6 hours. St. Augustine is where the junction of the Matanzas River and the Tolomoto River enters the Atlantic. Just before entering the Atlantic and its endless horizon to the east, we turned north and started on the Tolomoto River that would take us to the St. John’s River near its junction with the Atlantic Ocean. The plan was to ride the rising tide northward and that succeeded in nearly nullifying the river’s current as it emptied into the ocean.
The river touches the edges of the St. Augustine airport and was a first for us, being so close to the private jets and other general aviation. The Tolomoto River parallels the Atlantic shore and a thin barrier island that was densely packed with condos and other multi-story dwellings formed a continuous wall of human development created the separation. For many river miles, in the foreground was acres of marsh with chest-high grass with a smattering of clusters of trees and in the background, perhaps 3 miles away was the wall of condos that signaled where the beach started.
The steady 10-15 MPH westerly wind was on our port side beam and the outside temperature was in the low 50’s but the tug’s engine heater was turned on and off to keep the inside at a comfortable 70 degrees. Almost no other boats were seen, the occasional fisherman and the trawler that was snuggly anchored near Pine Island.
At the Palm Valley Bridge, about half way to the St. John’s River, it all changed with the eastern shore being a solid row of houses with docks and boats hoisted high on electric lifts. It felt like a tour of homes and docks. The western shore was wild, natural and dense with native trees and bushes. At the bridge was the headwaters of the Tolomoto River and the beginning of a narrow, straight ditch that would continue north, widening into broad expanses into the deltas that support the St. John’s River.
At the Atlantic Blvd highway bridge, the chart showed a current measuring station. This became entertaining as the flooding current, now coming at us from the mouth of the St. John’s River, was focused into a narrow channel under a bridge. The three sailboats we had passed had pulled off into a marina and we found out why, as the current was at least 5 knots. Though the official sign at every bridge in Florida said idle speed, at the first hint of uncontrollable sideways movement at this 30-foot wide opening, the throttle was moved forward a lot and Andiamo overcame the power of the current and we had total and safe control.
Then, the scenery and function of the river changed again to a wide and busy commercial shipping channel with captains on their big freighters and tugs calling out their location and intentions on the VHF radio. The wind had risen and the chop had kicked up to 2-3 footers in this wide and bending channel. We were riding the westbound flooding tide and fighting the westerly winds that caused the chop. Wind opposing tide is the recipe chop. The tug found the balance of speed and a raised profile of the bow. Andiamo was riding comfortably at 10 MPH and with the bow up slightly, there was very little spray as the chop was attacked head-on.
For 18 miles, we stayed out of the main channel, riding the edges in 40 feet of water and skirting by freighters that were being loaded or off-loaded. Jacksonville is 20 miles from the Atlantic Ocean on the St. John’s River and this city of over 800,000 has developed both sides of the river with heavy industrial purposes until the downtown core was identified with its skyline. Civic leaders have attempted to woe boaters to downtown with the offering of free docks but the dock's reputation is the reason we passed on them: unwanted attention by homeless people and thefts. These docks can take a lot of boats and not one boat was there.
Today’s destination was the Marina at Ortega Landing and is pronounced Or-tee-ga. Laurie asked the bridge tender at the Ortega River Bridge, the most frequently opened bridge in Florida, for an opening and it happened immediately. We pulled into the marina at 3:15 PM having travelled 77 miles in 7 hours and used about 20 gallons of diesel. This mileage was probably the most we have done in Andiamo in one day and it was easy.
This marina is on the Ortega River and near the junction with the St. John's River. A looper had made the recommendation and it is one of the very best we had ever stayed at, but more on that later. A week’s moorage was purchased which was really four individual days worth and it can be split into two pieces. The idea is to stay a couple of days, head up river for a week, then spend a few days exploring Jacksonville before returning to the ICW, The Publix grocery store was less than a half-mile away, so backpacks and bags were brought. With the provisioning complete, the walk back through an older and changing residential neighborhood was enjoyed.
The evening was closed with watching the final Bourne movie trilogy and Blue Bloods on CBS.
Friday, March 7
We awoke early with our thumb on the abort button to not leave. The cloud cover was solid and nearly on the water and the wind was a steady 10-12 that caused a light chop. The air temperature was 50 and the wind chill lowered that. We had been tied to the marina for longer than we had planned and it was comfortable to stay. Should we wait for a better weather window? All of our prior experience in the Pacific Northwest told me that these are great conditions and we are especially more comfortable in doing these conditions in the tug.
At 8:15 AM, the tug was backed out of its slip and the current was nearly slack but that was going to change quickly as the flooding tide would raise the water level by 4 feet in 6 hours. St. Augustine is where the junction of the Matanzas River and the Tolomoto River enters the Atlantic. Just before entering the Atlantic and its endless horizon to the east, we turned north and started on the Tolomoto River that would take us to the St. John’s River near its junction with the Atlantic Ocean. The plan was to ride the rising tide northward and that succeeded in nearly nullifying the river’s current as it emptied into the ocean.
The river touches the edges of the St. Augustine airport and was a first for us, being so close to the private jets and other general aviation. The Tolomoto River parallels the Atlantic shore and a thin barrier island that was densely packed with condos and other multi-story dwellings formed a continuous wall of human development created the separation. For many river miles, in the foreground was acres of marsh with chest-high grass with a smattering of clusters of trees and in the background, perhaps 3 miles away was the wall of condos that signaled where the beach started.
The steady 10-15 MPH westerly wind was on our port side beam and the outside temperature was in the low 50’s but the tug’s engine heater was turned on and off to keep the inside at a comfortable 70 degrees. Almost no other boats were seen, the occasional fisherman and the trawler that was snuggly anchored near Pine Island.
At the Palm Valley Bridge, about half way to the St. John’s River, it all changed with the eastern shore being a solid row of houses with docks and boats hoisted high on electric lifts. It felt like a tour of homes and docks. The western shore was wild, natural and dense with native trees and bushes. At the bridge was the headwaters of the Tolomoto River and the beginning of a narrow, straight ditch that would continue north, widening into broad expanses into the deltas that support the St. John’s River.
At the Atlantic Blvd highway bridge, the chart showed a current measuring station. This became entertaining as the flooding current, now coming at us from the mouth of the St. John’s River, was focused into a narrow channel under a bridge. The three sailboats we had passed had pulled off into a marina and we found out why, as the current was at least 5 knots. Though the official sign at every bridge in Florida said idle speed, at the first hint of uncontrollable sideways movement at this 30-foot wide opening, the throttle was moved forward a lot and Andiamo overcame the power of the current and we had total and safe control.
Then, the scenery and function of the river changed again to a wide and busy commercial shipping channel with captains on their big freighters and tugs calling out their location and intentions on the VHF radio. The wind had risen and the chop had kicked up to 2-3 footers in this wide and bending channel. We were riding the westbound flooding tide and fighting the westerly winds that caused the chop. Wind opposing tide is the recipe chop. The tug found the balance of speed and a raised profile of the bow. Andiamo was riding comfortably at 10 MPH and with the bow up slightly, there was very little spray as the chop was attacked head-on.
For 18 miles, we stayed out of the main channel, riding the edges in 40 feet of water and skirting by freighters that were being loaded or off-loaded. Jacksonville is 20 miles from the Atlantic Ocean on the St. John’s River and this city of over 800,000 has developed both sides of the river with heavy industrial purposes until the downtown core was identified with its skyline. Civic leaders have attempted to woe boaters to downtown with the offering of free docks but the dock's reputation is the reason we passed on them: unwanted attention by homeless people and thefts. These docks can take a lot of boats and not one boat was there.
Today’s destination was the Marina at Ortega Landing and is pronounced Or-tee-ga. Laurie asked the bridge tender at the Ortega River Bridge, the most frequently opened bridge in Florida, for an opening and it happened immediately. We pulled into the marina at 3:15 PM having travelled 77 miles in 7 hours and used about 20 gallons of diesel. This mileage was probably the most we have done in Andiamo in one day and it was easy.
This marina is on the Ortega River and near the junction with the St. John's River. A looper had made the recommendation and it is one of the very best we had ever stayed at, but more on that later. A week’s moorage was purchased which was really four individual days worth and it can be split into two pieces. The idea is to stay a couple of days, head up river for a week, then spend a few days exploring Jacksonville before returning to the ICW, The Publix grocery store was less than a half-mile away, so backpacks and bags were brought. With the provisioning complete, the walk back through an older and changing residential neighborhood was enjoyed.
The evening was closed with watching the final Bourne movie trilogy and Blue Bloods on CBS.
The next day, the bright blue sky and the sun overheard were stunning and we realized how much we had missed it for the last week. Though the morning temperature was initially cool, in the high 50’s, the air was warming fast. After breakfast, we started on the heavy cleaning projects that had waited while the weather was uncooperative.
The carpets where shaken and brushed, the floors done, and then the exterior work started. The dried salt that built up on the gelcoat, the window frames and the glass was wiped away with a solution of vinegar and water and then the gelcoat was waxed. Nearly 5 weeks had passed since Tarpon Springs and the last wax job and Andiamo needed cleaning. The wax on the cabin and decks had held up nicely but the cruising had worn off much of the wax on the hull. By early afternoon, 60% of the boat had been done and the tug looked great.
Boats are high maintenance and there is a very close ratio to the number of hours cruising to the number of hours needed to maintain it. Like all complex systems, if the boat is not used, then a different kind of maintenance is needed. There is just no escaping the chores of repair and cleaning. The retail industry counts on the owner’s continuing search for the product to reduce the maintenance hours, but there are no shortcuts.
The free laundromat was taken advantage off and the afternoon was split between long phone calls and Facetime, a walk to the nearby Starbucks for long overdue treats and a haircut for Laurie. Dinner was baked chicken in the oven, another first, then a bit of long-range planning about Georgia.
The carpets where shaken and brushed, the floors done, and then the exterior work started. The dried salt that built up on the gelcoat, the window frames and the glass was wiped away with a solution of vinegar and water and then the gelcoat was waxed. Nearly 5 weeks had passed since Tarpon Springs and the last wax job and Andiamo needed cleaning. The wax on the cabin and decks had held up nicely but the cruising had worn off much of the wax on the hull. By early afternoon, 60% of the boat had been done and the tug looked great.
Boats are high maintenance and there is a very close ratio to the number of hours cruising to the number of hours needed to maintain it. Like all complex systems, if the boat is not used, then a different kind of maintenance is needed. There is just no escaping the chores of repair and cleaning. The retail industry counts on the owner’s continuing search for the product to reduce the maintenance hours, but there are no shortcuts.
The free laundromat was taken advantage off and the afternoon was split between long phone calls and Facetime, a walk to the nearby Starbucks for long overdue treats and a haircut for Laurie. Dinner was baked chicken in the oven, another first, then a bit of long-range planning about Georgia.
HEADING TO PALATKA
Sunday, March 9
The first day of daylight savings time and not using an alarm found our timing was off by an hour. This was a travel day and Andiamo needed to be “re-set,” that is fuel and water tanks topped off and the holding tank pumped out. This side trip up and back would be about 250 miles over about 7 days. The availability of diesel was more limited but very do-able.
Diesel and the pump-out was done at the nearby Lamb’s Yacht Center after we waited for the railroad bridge to open after the southbound Amtrak train crossed, and we threaded our way deep into this marina that needs a major investment of capital funding. But the diesel price was good and the lone employee waived the pump-out fee because we were nice and self-sufficient.
Going under two bridges that needed opening and into the river’s main channel put us into the late morning. For the next 20 miles, the St. John’s River is over 2 miles wide, with the channel towards the middle. The far off scenery was high-end houses that were tucked in the trees, so we opted to power up and for the next hour, Andiamo skated up the river at 14-16 mph until reaching Green Cove Springs where the portions of the navy’s World War II fleet was built on long piers that have endured to this day.
One of the fixed highway bridges that Andiamo zoomed under is the obstacle that stops the big sailboats from going southward of the river. These limitations does not enter our thinking nor does currents, depth, or rain.
Through text messages, we learned that Tom and Pam and their Ranger 25 “Evolve” was at the city dock in Palatka. We had sold them their tug last summer and we had met them in Stuart weeks before. The city dock is new, has two finger piers and is next to the highway bridge but the noise was perfectly acceptable. Andiamo arrived at about 4 PM, having travelled 63 miles in 7 hours, fighting a ½ knot current all day, but the water was smooth and the wind was light.
Tom and Pam wanted to tour Andiamo and we heard about how “Evolve” was doing. We shared dinner on the dock between the two tugs, told stories and laughed until the sun nearly went down. The evening was closed as we watched 60 Minutes and CBS’s lineup on the TV in the master cabin.
Sunday, March 9
The first day of daylight savings time and not using an alarm found our timing was off by an hour. This was a travel day and Andiamo needed to be “re-set,” that is fuel and water tanks topped off and the holding tank pumped out. This side trip up and back would be about 250 miles over about 7 days. The availability of diesel was more limited but very do-able.
Diesel and the pump-out was done at the nearby Lamb’s Yacht Center after we waited for the railroad bridge to open after the southbound Amtrak train crossed, and we threaded our way deep into this marina that needs a major investment of capital funding. But the diesel price was good and the lone employee waived the pump-out fee because we were nice and self-sufficient.
Going under two bridges that needed opening and into the river’s main channel put us into the late morning. For the next 20 miles, the St. John’s River is over 2 miles wide, with the channel towards the middle. The far off scenery was high-end houses that were tucked in the trees, so we opted to power up and for the next hour, Andiamo skated up the river at 14-16 mph until reaching Green Cove Springs where the portions of the navy’s World War II fleet was built on long piers that have endured to this day.
One of the fixed highway bridges that Andiamo zoomed under is the obstacle that stops the big sailboats from going southward of the river. These limitations does not enter our thinking nor does currents, depth, or rain.
Through text messages, we learned that Tom and Pam and their Ranger 25 “Evolve” was at the city dock in Palatka. We had sold them their tug last summer and we had met them in Stuart weeks before. The city dock is new, has two finger piers and is next to the highway bridge but the noise was perfectly acceptable. Andiamo arrived at about 4 PM, having travelled 63 miles in 7 hours, fighting a ½ knot current all day, but the water was smooth and the wind was light.
Tom and Pam wanted to tour Andiamo and we heard about how “Evolve” was doing. We shared dinner on the dock between the two tugs, told stories and laughed until the sun nearly went down. The evening was closed as we watched 60 Minutes and CBS’s lineup on the TV in the master cabin.
THE MIDDLE THIRD OF THE ST. JOHN'S RIVER
Monday, March 10
A calm and windless early morning light over the flat water greeted us. While we ate breakfast, Tom and Pam explored Palatka and when they returned, we said our goodbyes as we started our exploration southward. They were headed north, on to Jacksonville and though it was nice to see the former Laurie Ann, the absence of any feelings of regret or nostalgia signaled that we had adapted.
Palatka is the county seat for Putnam County and has a rich history but had peaked decades earlier. The beginning signs of redevelopment could be found on the waterfront and an occasional investment by a landowner, but the town must need paint stores because so many structurally interesting buildings were way overdue for painting. Our past and present is tied to the Episcopal Church and the historic St. Marks church was one of the worst.
The historic districts were enjoyable to walk through with signs telling the story, wide streets and very old trees with Spanish Moss hanging. The other free city dock was found at the boat ramp and not a boat was there. Between the two docks, this one was clearly the worst dock, sharing space and function with the boat ramp and with bathrooms were in hideously disrepair besides being overflowing and plugged-up. Clearly, the budget cutters had whacked the maintenance budgets really hard.
Heading south and upriver, it was a day of slow cruising, side trips and exploration. This was the real gateway to the scenic St. John’s River because it was narrower and further away from the metro area. Andiamo has such a shallow draft of 2’-6” that it can often be treated like a big dingy. The Waterway Guide, Skipper Bob’s and Active Captain.com are written for their dominant audience, owners of the big boats and sailboats with their deep drafts and their cautions of shallow water did not apply to us.
Intrigued by Murphy Creek on the south end of Murphy Island, that is not mentioned in the guide books, Andiamo followed the 6 foot depth contour to 15 and 22 feet, up an idyllic setting that was about 70 yards wide, past a bass fisherman, to where we turned around and idled out at 5 miles per hour loving the calmness and quiet.
A train was heard crossing nearby at the Buffalo Bluff railroad bridge so we took our time getting there. Apparently, the bridge tender got the “Andiamo Mojo” and opened the bridge without a radio request. “Andiamo Mojo” is the visible effect of what this Ranger 29 has on someone. Stopping and staring is the most common symptom and that is followed by making a special trip, on foot or by boat to come closer. Miles later, near the marina north of Welaka, we saw another case of “Andiamo Mojo” where a boat owner stopped, stared and continue to stare for a full minute before coming back to his reality.
Osprey nests were back on the channel markers. They were gone somewhere around Titusville on the ICW. Bald eagles were flying low in pairs, probably in the nest-building mode. Much discussion and online reading about Spanish Moss and its biology. It is an air plant, needs warmth and high humidity and ranges from Virginia to Argentina. It had many uses over the centuries including stuffing pillows and car seats in the early 1900’s, but the most interesting was the stuffing for voodoo dolls.
Lunch was on the hook in 5 feet of water between the middle islands of the Seven Sisters. A delightful place with two alligators waiting silently and effortlessly near the shore with only their noses, eyes, and spine showing above the water and two huge turtles basking on a log with heads out and stretched-necks arched toward the sky. Leaving, the island was circumnavigated and Andiamo took another side trip to circle Stokes Island.
Laurie’s allergy to something had really kicked in, with sneezing, running nose and an awful sinus headache. Medication was not working well and though she was trying to tough it out, it affected her whole day.
The community of Welaka left the impression of being more of a wide spot in the river than a community with a soul and a visible identity. The information on the city dock was vague, absent or contradictory and is preventable when the community leaders are proactive in sending current information to the mediums that boaters use. The nicest dock was signed with “Bryan’s Wharf” and Laurie wondered of this was the city dock. Later, postings were found that was the city dock. Poorly signed, poorly communicated will lead to poor usage.
At 3PM and 36 miles from Palatka, the anchor was dropped behind Buzzard’s Point, open but off the channel in 5 feet of water with 2 feet under the stern, in a state conservation land, and on the edge of the Ocala National Forest.
Monday, March 10
A calm and windless early morning light over the flat water greeted us. While we ate breakfast, Tom and Pam explored Palatka and when they returned, we said our goodbyes as we started our exploration southward. They were headed north, on to Jacksonville and though it was nice to see the former Laurie Ann, the absence of any feelings of regret or nostalgia signaled that we had adapted.
Palatka is the county seat for Putnam County and has a rich history but had peaked decades earlier. The beginning signs of redevelopment could be found on the waterfront and an occasional investment by a landowner, but the town must need paint stores because so many structurally interesting buildings were way overdue for painting. Our past and present is tied to the Episcopal Church and the historic St. Marks church was one of the worst.
The historic districts were enjoyable to walk through with signs telling the story, wide streets and very old trees with Spanish Moss hanging. The other free city dock was found at the boat ramp and not a boat was there. Between the two docks, this one was clearly the worst dock, sharing space and function with the boat ramp and with bathrooms were in hideously disrepair besides being overflowing and plugged-up. Clearly, the budget cutters had whacked the maintenance budgets really hard.
Heading south and upriver, it was a day of slow cruising, side trips and exploration. This was the real gateway to the scenic St. John’s River because it was narrower and further away from the metro area. Andiamo has such a shallow draft of 2’-6” that it can often be treated like a big dingy. The Waterway Guide, Skipper Bob’s and Active Captain.com are written for their dominant audience, owners of the big boats and sailboats with their deep drafts and their cautions of shallow water did not apply to us.
Intrigued by Murphy Creek on the south end of Murphy Island, that is not mentioned in the guide books, Andiamo followed the 6 foot depth contour to 15 and 22 feet, up an idyllic setting that was about 70 yards wide, past a bass fisherman, to where we turned around and idled out at 5 miles per hour loving the calmness and quiet.
A train was heard crossing nearby at the Buffalo Bluff railroad bridge so we took our time getting there. Apparently, the bridge tender got the “Andiamo Mojo” and opened the bridge without a radio request. “Andiamo Mojo” is the visible effect of what this Ranger 29 has on someone. Stopping and staring is the most common symptom and that is followed by making a special trip, on foot or by boat to come closer. Miles later, near the marina north of Welaka, we saw another case of “Andiamo Mojo” where a boat owner stopped, stared and continue to stare for a full minute before coming back to his reality.
Osprey nests were back on the channel markers. They were gone somewhere around Titusville on the ICW. Bald eagles were flying low in pairs, probably in the nest-building mode. Much discussion and online reading about Spanish Moss and its biology. It is an air plant, needs warmth and high humidity and ranges from Virginia to Argentina. It had many uses over the centuries including stuffing pillows and car seats in the early 1900’s, but the most interesting was the stuffing for voodoo dolls.
Lunch was on the hook in 5 feet of water between the middle islands of the Seven Sisters. A delightful place with two alligators waiting silently and effortlessly near the shore with only their noses, eyes, and spine showing above the water and two huge turtles basking on a log with heads out and stretched-necks arched toward the sky. Leaving, the island was circumnavigated and Andiamo took another side trip to circle Stokes Island.
Laurie’s allergy to something had really kicked in, with sneezing, running nose and an awful sinus headache. Medication was not working well and though she was trying to tough it out, it affected her whole day.
The community of Welaka left the impression of being more of a wide spot in the river than a community with a soul and a visible identity. The information on the city dock was vague, absent or contradictory and is preventable when the community leaders are proactive in sending current information to the mediums that boaters use. The nicest dock was signed with “Bryan’s Wharf” and Laurie wondered of this was the city dock. Later, postings were found that was the city dock. Poorly signed, poorly communicated will lead to poor usage.
At 3PM and 36 miles from Palatka, the anchor was dropped behind Buzzard’s Point, open but off the channel in 5 feet of water with 2 feet under the stern, in a state conservation land, and on the edge of the Ocala National Forest.
The next day and the first glimpse of the outside revealed a thick shroud of fog and the Weatherbug app gave an alert from NOAA of a dense fog advisory through 10 AM. By the end of breakfast, the breeze had blown out the fog and Andiamo headed south, past Georgetown and into Lake George.
A huge fog bank sat on top of this 50 square mile lake. Was proceeding prudent? What was our comfort level? The water was dead flat with no wind and the channel was marked with frequent red and green markers. The many hours with the radar and the chart plotter had created confidence in navigating by instruments, so we dove into the fog bank at 7 MPH where visibility dropped to less than an 1/8 of a mile. Running lights were turned on and the horn was sounded every few minutes as the autopilot steered to the next set of markers on this 10-mile long channel that was arrow straight. For 45 minutes, I watched the instruments for targets and adjusted the heading to make the next set of markers. Laurie scanned the fog, from side to side, for objects that the radar missed like crab traps and small fiberglass craft. At this level of intensity, time slows down.
A huge fog bank sat on top of this 50 square mile lake. Was proceeding prudent? What was our comfort level? The water was dead flat with no wind and the channel was marked with frequent red and green markers. The many hours with the radar and the chart plotter had created confidence in navigating by instruments, so we dove into the fog bank at 7 MPH where visibility dropped to less than an 1/8 of a mile. Running lights were turned on and the horn was sounded every few minutes as the autopilot steered to the next set of markers on this 10-mile long channel that was arrow straight. For 45 minutes, I watched the instruments for targets and adjusted the heading to make the next set of markers. Laurie scanned the fog, from side to side, for objects that the radar missed like crab traps and small fiberglass craft. At this level of intensity, time slows down.
7 miles later, the curtain of fog suddenly lifted to reveal a brilliant blue sky and clear sailing. Andiamo accelerated to 16 MPH and made the two high wood fences that mark and protect the entrance to the river where the tug dropped to idle speed until the river was fully entered.
For the remainder of the day, the river twisted, bent, turned and wondered with very few and very short straight stretches. It was narrow and the trees and shrubs came right down to the edge. Also, we met a new constant companion: Water Hyacinth. This floating plant would dominate every edge, every foreground, with single plants drifting in the river looking for a blank space to propagate with its runners.
Andiamo’s water intake was deep enough that these plants were unlikely to get sucked up and plug the tug’s cooling system and after 5 minutes of avoiding these, efforts were abandoned and the tug just ran them down.
The community of Astor was ntriguing because it was not high-end but also not in disrepair. It exuded character and history, like it was comfortable in its own skin with the blend of airboats, fish camps, and modest homes of working people.
Lunchtime, we found a quiet anchorage behind Lundgren Island and dropped the anchor in 12 feet of water with a view of the channel’s traffic and protection from their wakes. The most traffic in two days with 6 boats seen and 5 of those were fishing boats. The sky was cloudless and the temperature was in the very high 70's.
At Dexter Island, it was Florida’s wilderness and was protected by a national wildlife refuge. The river was deep but narrow at about 70 yards. No channel markers because they were not necessary.
For the remainder of the day, the river twisted, bent, turned and wondered with very few and very short straight stretches. It was narrow and the trees and shrubs came right down to the edge. Also, we met a new constant companion: Water Hyacinth. This floating plant would dominate every edge, every foreground, with single plants drifting in the river looking for a blank space to propagate with its runners.
Andiamo’s water intake was deep enough that these plants were unlikely to get sucked up and plug the tug’s cooling system and after 5 minutes of avoiding these, efforts were abandoned and the tug just ran them down.
The community of Astor was ntriguing because it was not high-end but also not in disrepair. It exuded character and history, like it was comfortable in its own skin with the blend of airboats, fish camps, and modest homes of working people.
Lunchtime, we found a quiet anchorage behind Lundgren Island and dropped the anchor in 12 feet of water with a view of the channel’s traffic and protection from their wakes. The most traffic in two days with 6 boats seen and 5 of those were fishing boats. The sky was cloudless and the temperature was in the very high 70's.
At Dexter Island, it was Florida’s wilderness and was protected by a national wildlife refuge. The river was deep but narrow at about 70 yards. No channel markers because they were not necessary.
Miles of beautiful scenery brought the Deland highway bridge and its vertical clearance of 16 feet. As the tug approached, construction trucks were parked on the span that opens. This bridge was not going to open. The St. John’s Marina was just downriver of the bridge and was full of big boats that were blocked from going further. The marina was bustling with bikers who were likely associated with Daytona Beach’s biker days that was advertised to rival what happens in Sturgis, North Dakota. Not one biker noticed Andiamo, apparently immune to its Mojo.
Andiamo has three vertical clearance measurements: antenna up - 16 feet, antenna down - 13 feet, and the radar tower down-10 feet. Early in this trip, we took the time to accurately take these measurements so we had confidence in them. Laurie lowered the antenna and we glided under the span with room to spare and continued to our destination of Hontoon State Park.
This state park is not consistently noted in the guidebooks or in Active Captain.com as an option to stop and now we knew why. The park has 40 slips and as it was approached, it was clear that the slips were designed for the 14-18 foot fishing boats. There were 4 places for larger craft and the park volunteer guided us into one. We had traveled 58 miles in about 6 hours.
The park volunteer lived on a trawler with his wife who ran the park store and are from the northeast. She told us that the mosquitoes come out at sunset and lasted about two hours. The cockpit netting was zipped in and the canvas was added for shade control. Pork chops were BBQ’d and served with green beans and scones baked in the oven.
Andiamo has three vertical clearance measurements: antenna up - 16 feet, antenna down - 13 feet, and the radar tower down-10 feet. Early in this trip, we took the time to accurately take these measurements so we had confidence in them. Laurie lowered the antenna and we glided under the span with room to spare and continued to our destination of Hontoon State Park.
This state park is not consistently noted in the guidebooks or in Active Captain.com as an option to stop and now we knew why. The park has 40 slips and as it was approached, it was clear that the slips were designed for the 14-18 foot fishing boats. There were 4 places for larger craft and the park volunteer guided us into one. We had traveled 58 miles in about 6 hours.
The park volunteer lived on a trawler with his wife who ran the park store and are from the northeast. She told us that the mosquitoes come out at sunset and lasted about two hours. The cockpit netting was zipped in and the canvas was added for shade control. Pork chops were BBQ’d and served with green beans and scones baked in the oven.
Wednesday, March 12
The weather forecast predicted rain and gusty winds as another cold front was sweeping down from the north and blowing across the state. This has been a very long, severe and difficult winter for most of the east and extending into the south. Laurie woke up when the rain started before sunrise and lowered the hatches the rest of the way.
The plan to kayak around the west side of Hontoon Island was scraped as we watched the wind gusts and rain cells come through during the breakfast. The canvas mesh in the cockpit kept the mosquitoes out and most of the rain except during the downpour where the drops bounce off the dock. Then, the water came through the mesh, like it was not there. When the weather radar showed a gap between cells later in the morning. The backpack was loaded with rain jackets and rain pants and we walked the park ATV roads and trails for 3 ½ miles enjoying thick palms and scattered pines. This land drains quickly with the only evidence of a recent hard rain was the dents in the sand. The interior of the island reminded us of Central Oregon with pines and almost no understory except the juniper were shrubs of palms; it was delightful.
The afternoon wind gusts picked up as predicted and it was good to spend a second night at the park’s marina. Laurie spent most of the afternoon with Mike and Barbara on their Monk 36 talking about the cruising Georgia and the Carolinas while I did boat maintenance. She came back with highlights on the chart and the need to buy another cruising guide.
After cocktails in the cockpit, a ham was baked in the oven and served with new potatoes. The evening was closed with two episodes of House of Cards being streamed through the iPhone's hotspot feature.
The weather forecast predicted rain and gusty winds as another cold front was sweeping down from the north and blowing across the state. This has been a very long, severe and difficult winter for most of the east and extending into the south. Laurie woke up when the rain started before sunrise and lowered the hatches the rest of the way.
The plan to kayak around the west side of Hontoon Island was scraped as we watched the wind gusts and rain cells come through during the breakfast. The canvas mesh in the cockpit kept the mosquitoes out and most of the rain except during the downpour where the drops bounce off the dock. Then, the water came through the mesh, like it was not there. When the weather radar showed a gap between cells later in the morning. The backpack was loaded with rain jackets and rain pants and we walked the park ATV roads and trails for 3 ½ miles enjoying thick palms and scattered pines. This land drains quickly with the only evidence of a recent hard rain was the dents in the sand. The interior of the island reminded us of Central Oregon with pines and almost no understory except the juniper were shrubs of palms; it was delightful.
The afternoon wind gusts picked up as predicted and it was good to spend a second night at the park’s marina. Laurie spent most of the afternoon with Mike and Barbara on their Monk 36 talking about the cruising Georgia and the Carolinas while I did boat maintenance. She came back with highlights on the chart and the need to buy another cruising guide.
After cocktails in the cockpit, a ham was baked in the oven and served with new potatoes. The evening was closed with two episodes of House of Cards being streamed through the iPhone's hotspot feature.
The next day, the wind gusts of 20 to 30 were supposed to have ended about midnight but continued through the night until about noon. Boating means paying closer attention to what God is doing with the weather and often times this means adapting and changing expectations; a constant reminder about who is really in charge.
Laurie made an egg scramble with some of the ham from the night before. Afterwards, donning light coats and hats, the park’s trails were further explored. Yesterday it was rain and heat; today it is wind and cold. The time on the tug was filled with research and reserving plane seats and moorage space.
Andiamo left Hontoon State Park at noon when the wind had laid down to a respectable 15 miles per hour and no gusts. Continuing upriver and southbound, the options of destinations were talked about. The weather took a day and a half out of the travel calendar, though there are no regrets, but we needed to adapt in order to be in Jacksonville Sunday night and no one wanted to rush the trip back in three long days.
At the Palmetto Reach, at green marker 97, and 13 miles from Sanford, Andiamo turned around and started the long trip back, going downriver and northward. The notion was to stop more, stay longer and anchor out as much as possible to Jacksonville. At 3:30 PM and north of the St. John’s Marina, the anchor was dropped in 15 feet of water behind an island that offered good protection from the north wind and bordered the national wildlife refuge.
Satisfied with the holding, the swing, and the location, the kayaks were off-loaded and in 15 minutes this oxbow was being thoroughly explored. As the sunset, Andiamo was so still we could have at a marina or back on the hard at George’s Boatyard.
Laurie made an egg scramble with some of the ham from the night before. Afterwards, donning light coats and hats, the park’s trails were further explored. Yesterday it was rain and heat; today it is wind and cold. The time on the tug was filled with research and reserving plane seats and moorage space.
Andiamo left Hontoon State Park at noon when the wind had laid down to a respectable 15 miles per hour and no gusts. Continuing upriver and southbound, the options of destinations were talked about. The weather took a day and a half out of the travel calendar, though there are no regrets, but we needed to adapt in order to be in Jacksonville Sunday night and no one wanted to rush the trip back in three long days.
At the Palmetto Reach, at green marker 97, and 13 miles from Sanford, Andiamo turned around and started the long trip back, going downriver and northward. The notion was to stop more, stay longer and anchor out as much as possible to Jacksonville. At 3:30 PM and north of the St. John’s Marina, the anchor was dropped in 15 feet of water behind an island that offered good protection from the north wind and bordered the national wildlife refuge.
Satisfied with the holding, the swing, and the location, the kayaks were off-loaded and in 15 minutes this oxbow was being thoroughly explored. As the sunset, Andiamo was so still we could have at a marina or back on the hard at George’s Boatyard.
Friday, March 14
The still, morning light on calm waters was delightful. With no particular destination in mind, we headed north, passing places with interesting names like St. Francis Dead River and Mosquito Grove. After passing trees that were full of turkey and black vultures, Laurie, the Chief Naturalist, did a minor research project on the difference between a buzzard and a vulture. Buzzards are a colloquial word that groups a number of raptors together, like saying SUV’s or trawlers; while a vulture is a specific species of raptor, like saying Ranger Tug.
More ospreys were seen than on any other day, nesting on the channel markers, a pair flying together, and hunting from the tree snags. Apparently, their food supply in the St. John’s River was abundant. Returning to the community of Astor, the brown pelicans were suddenly back, perching in groups on the roofs over the docks and gliding just inches above the river’s surface. Several bald eagles were seen, swooping low over the tug and flying in pairs as they mate for life.
The river is described as "blackwater" and this accurately described the visibility that was in inches. The prop turbulence that Andiamo created was not blue, it was dark brown. The color comes from the leeching from the tree bark. This is one of the longest north-south rivers in North America and that does not have any locks or dams.
The 10-mile long crossing of Lake George was completely different from the fog encountered before. The sky was clear and blue, the winds were mild, and the visibility was at least 20 miles. This fifty square mile lake has a bottom that is nearly flat with a consistent 7-½ feet under the tug's keel. The navy’s bombing range on the east half of the lake created a large restricted area but there was no activity on this day.
At Welaka, Mike and Barbara’s Monk 36 was at the town dock, Bryan’s Wharf, and we found a spot on the inside, opposite the short finger piers that are for fishing boats. Andiamo had traveled 55 miles. A free dock that does not have any other services is great way to entice short-term or transient boaters to stop and shop. The afternoon was enjoyed at Welaka with walking the streets, examining the menus at two restaurants, watching and listening two older black women fish and tell stories.
Following a recommendation posted by Mike Rizzo, we had dinner at the Café Le Bleu, a small restaurant that can seat about 20 was about 50 yards from the tug. Roxy is the hostess, waitress, dishwasher, bartender and co-owner. Glenn is the chef. Laurie had the special; a fried grouper fish dish that she said was fabulous. I had their signature dish shrimp scampi and it was great. The couple next to us were locals from Jacksonville and have a brother that works at the Boeing’s Everett Plant and lives in Snohomish, Washington; another example of serendipity.
The still, morning light on calm waters was delightful. With no particular destination in mind, we headed north, passing places with interesting names like St. Francis Dead River and Mosquito Grove. After passing trees that were full of turkey and black vultures, Laurie, the Chief Naturalist, did a minor research project on the difference between a buzzard and a vulture. Buzzards are a colloquial word that groups a number of raptors together, like saying SUV’s or trawlers; while a vulture is a specific species of raptor, like saying Ranger Tug.
More ospreys were seen than on any other day, nesting on the channel markers, a pair flying together, and hunting from the tree snags. Apparently, their food supply in the St. John’s River was abundant. Returning to the community of Astor, the brown pelicans were suddenly back, perching in groups on the roofs over the docks and gliding just inches above the river’s surface. Several bald eagles were seen, swooping low over the tug and flying in pairs as they mate for life.
The river is described as "blackwater" and this accurately described the visibility that was in inches. The prop turbulence that Andiamo created was not blue, it was dark brown. The color comes from the leeching from the tree bark. This is one of the longest north-south rivers in North America and that does not have any locks or dams.
The 10-mile long crossing of Lake George was completely different from the fog encountered before. The sky was clear and blue, the winds were mild, and the visibility was at least 20 miles. This fifty square mile lake has a bottom that is nearly flat with a consistent 7-½ feet under the tug's keel. The navy’s bombing range on the east half of the lake created a large restricted area but there was no activity on this day.
At Welaka, Mike and Barbara’s Monk 36 was at the town dock, Bryan’s Wharf, and we found a spot on the inside, opposite the short finger piers that are for fishing boats. Andiamo had traveled 55 miles. A free dock that does not have any other services is great way to entice short-term or transient boaters to stop and shop. The afternoon was enjoyed at Welaka with walking the streets, examining the menus at two restaurants, watching and listening two older black women fish and tell stories.
Following a recommendation posted by Mike Rizzo, we had dinner at the Café Le Bleu, a small restaurant that can seat about 20 was about 50 yards from the tug. Roxy is the hostess, waitress, dishwasher, bartender and co-owner. Glenn is the chef. Laurie had the special; a fried grouper fish dish that she said was fabulous. I had their signature dish shrimp scampi and it was great. The couple next to us were locals from Jacksonville and have a brother that works at the Boeing’s Everett Plant and lives in Snohomish, Washington; another example of serendipity.
The next morning, the twin diesels on the Monk 36 woke us up and soon after Mike and Barbara were heading north. The slower speed cruisers often leave very early to get to their destination by early afternoon. We would leave two hours later and would catch up to them, 40 miles later as they approached Six-mile Creek.
Our legs were stretched on a portion of the Bartram Recreation Trail that is a road of sand that goes through an “Old Florida” neighborhood with a wide spectrum of houses, from the mobile homes to the custom-built waterfront sub-mansions. Leaving the dock was a minor challenge as the current was strong enough to pin the tug against it and there was not enough room off the bow to drive out and miss the T-dock. After one strategy failed, the tug was hand-walked backwards to where the transom was nearly on the beach and this created more driving room, then with a big push on the bow with the bow thruster engaged and easing forward, the dock was cleared and we rode the current down river.
Saturday morning and the river was a buzz with bass boats, jetting to a fishing spot at over 40 MPH. You know these boats go too fast when the driver wears a helmet, full-face mask and goggles. All morning, these boats would zip by us, on either side without warning or appear from around a bend and slide in front of us. If jet-skiis are water-borne crotch-rockets, these bass boats are the testosterone-driven hot rods.
While passing the remains of the Cross-Florida Barge Canal, Laurie did another minor research project. The idea of creating a canal across northern Florida had been floated four hundred years ago and brought up again and again to improve the transportation of goods and services. FDR funded it as did JFK. With 28% of the canal built, it was stopped by President Nixon and cancelled by President George H.W. Bush. The canal was renamed after the leader of the opposition group and was now a greenway.
This would be long travel day as the destination has fluid as Sunday’s weather was forecasted to be breezy with gusts to 30 MPH and Monday’s weather was rain. Options would start being examined after Palatka. According to Sailflow, the southerly winds would start picking up in the early morning hours, so an anchorage that had good protection was desired or a marina.
The cruise was easy as the water was flat, Andiamo was riding a 1-knot current that created speed and efficiency, and the breeze was light. At Stokes Island, Andiamo crossed the 500-engine hour mark with 3706 miles on her odometer. Since Tarpon Springs, Andiamo had safely taken us 1,014 miles in just under 6 weeks.
Green Cove Springs was rejected, as was the anchorage at Six-mile Creek. With idyllic cruising conditions, Andiamo kept pressing on.
4 PM and we decided upon a marina at Doctor’s Lake. Of the two marinas, the inside one that was past the highway bridge offered more protection and was too small for the bigger boats. Docking was interesting as the fairway was narrow and was used by boats to access the gas dock, the ramp and for the returning rental boats. The fixed-docks were right angles to this narrow fairway and we had two 30-foot slips to choose from. This tug is easy to maneuver; idle down, neutral, reverse, thrusters to execute a 90-dgree turn, stop, spring line on the piling, reverse, crisscross the stern lines, and using the remote thruster controls, stand on the bow and put out both bow lines on the pilings.
We were immediately greeted by Bob the self-appointed “Mayor of C Dock,” who told us about the services, Wi-Fi, and the area. He had lived on his Sea Ray power cruiser for 6 years and lived in The Keys before that. The conversation with Bob would often be interrupted with his yelling, “No Wake!” to the deserving skippers coming down the fairway.
Andiamo had travelled 77 miles and its crew was mentally exhausted. The marina was not quiet with a major highway nearby and Andiamo rocked to the wakes caused by boats going up Doctor’s Lake. But, it was perfectly adequate for a stopover and the price was right. Dinner was dark beer, chicken breasts and veggies cooked in aluminum foil on the BBQ followed by two more seasons of House of Cards that were streamed. As Mayor Bob predicted, by 9 PM the water was flat and quiet. Closing the windows nearest the highway made a quiet place inside the tug.
Our legs were stretched on a portion of the Bartram Recreation Trail that is a road of sand that goes through an “Old Florida” neighborhood with a wide spectrum of houses, from the mobile homes to the custom-built waterfront sub-mansions. Leaving the dock was a minor challenge as the current was strong enough to pin the tug against it and there was not enough room off the bow to drive out and miss the T-dock. After one strategy failed, the tug was hand-walked backwards to where the transom was nearly on the beach and this created more driving room, then with a big push on the bow with the bow thruster engaged and easing forward, the dock was cleared and we rode the current down river.
Saturday morning and the river was a buzz with bass boats, jetting to a fishing spot at over 40 MPH. You know these boats go too fast when the driver wears a helmet, full-face mask and goggles. All morning, these boats would zip by us, on either side without warning or appear from around a bend and slide in front of us. If jet-skiis are water-borne crotch-rockets, these bass boats are the testosterone-driven hot rods.
While passing the remains of the Cross-Florida Barge Canal, Laurie did another minor research project. The idea of creating a canal across northern Florida had been floated four hundred years ago and brought up again and again to improve the transportation of goods and services. FDR funded it as did JFK. With 28% of the canal built, it was stopped by President Nixon and cancelled by President George H.W. Bush. The canal was renamed after the leader of the opposition group and was now a greenway.
This would be long travel day as the destination has fluid as Sunday’s weather was forecasted to be breezy with gusts to 30 MPH and Monday’s weather was rain. Options would start being examined after Palatka. According to Sailflow, the southerly winds would start picking up in the early morning hours, so an anchorage that had good protection was desired or a marina.
The cruise was easy as the water was flat, Andiamo was riding a 1-knot current that created speed and efficiency, and the breeze was light. At Stokes Island, Andiamo crossed the 500-engine hour mark with 3706 miles on her odometer. Since Tarpon Springs, Andiamo had safely taken us 1,014 miles in just under 6 weeks.
Green Cove Springs was rejected, as was the anchorage at Six-mile Creek. With idyllic cruising conditions, Andiamo kept pressing on.
4 PM and we decided upon a marina at Doctor’s Lake. Of the two marinas, the inside one that was past the highway bridge offered more protection and was too small for the bigger boats. Docking was interesting as the fairway was narrow and was used by boats to access the gas dock, the ramp and for the returning rental boats. The fixed-docks were right angles to this narrow fairway and we had two 30-foot slips to choose from. This tug is easy to maneuver; idle down, neutral, reverse, thrusters to execute a 90-dgree turn, stop, spring line on the piling, reverse, crisscross the stern lines, and using the remote thruster controls, stand on the bow and put out both bow lines on the pilings.
We were immediately greeted by Bob the self-appointed “Mayor of C Dock,” who told us about the services, Wi-Fi, and the area. He had lived on his Sea Ray power cruiser for 6 years and lived in The Keys before that. The conversation with Bob would often be interrupted with his yelling, “No Wake!” to the deserving skippers coming down the fairway.
Andiamo had travelled 77 miles and its crew was mentally exhausted. The marina was not quiet with a major highway nearby and Andiamo rocked to the wakes caused by boats going up Doctor’s Lake. But, it was perfectly adequate for a stopover and the price was right. Dinner was dark beer, chicken breasts and veggies cooked in aluminum foil on the BBQ followed by two more seasons of House of Cards that were streamed. As Mayor Bob predicted, by 9 PM the water was flat and quiet. Closing the windows nearest the highway made a quiet place inside the tug.
BACK TO JACKSONVILLE & ORTEGA LANDING MARINA
Sunday, March 16
We intended to stay and leave later as the Ortega Marina was 13 miles away. However, a check of the winds showed the current conditions of a steady 12 MPH with gusts to 20 was going to change very soon to 20 MPH and gusts to 35 MPH. The weather was like a billboard with the message of, “Andiamo! or Let’s Go.” We said a quick good-by to Doctor’s Lake Marina.
After clearing the highway bridge, the wind and opposing current had created a northbound 2-3 foot chop. Andiamo was accelerated to the point where the ride was stable and the steering was easy. This was not about fuel efficiency; this was about a safe ride as we cruised at 11 MPH, using 6 gallons per hour and earning 1.5 gallons per mile. About an hour later, the Ortega Bridge was opened for us and Andiamo continued to Lambs Yacht Center to fill up on diesel and pump out the holding tank.
For this side trip off the Great Loop, Andiamo travelled 333 miles, burned 2.3 gallons per hour with the result of 4.2 miles per gallon.
There was no answer to our calls at the Ortega Marina and the wind gusts were over 30 MPH so we tied up at an open dock and Laurie went in search of the dockmaster. The wind continued to build, Andiamo was pinned to the dock and more fenders and lines were put out. A couple of hours later, we were secured in our slip.
Knowing that St. Patrick’s Day was going to be a washout with rain all day, the folding bikes were put together and we cycled through the Avon Neighborhood for an hour and a half and we took in the large, well maintained homes of colonial, Queen Anne, Tudor, Spanish and Mount Vernon styles. The bikes took us down quiet streets, through a park and we turned around at the large St. Vincent Hospital complex.
The evening was closed with 60 Minutes and The Good Wife with tea and cookies.
Monday, through Thursday, March 17 to 20
The rain started quietly and sweetly after midnight and by sunrise it was a downpour but with no wind and temperatures in the mid-60’s. The rain was steady all day with periods of more intensity. By late afternoon, over 2 inches of rain had fallen. Water mitigation strategies were employed to make the cockpit more comfortable. The propane level was evaluated and 6 weeks of near daily use resulted in the tank being about half full.
A car was rented from Hertz, who picked us up at the marina, a huge re-provisioning of food was accomplished and the stage was set to do the 500-hour engine service.
By day’s end, over 2 inches of rain had fallen.
The next day, the rain had moved on just after sunrise. After breakfast, half of the 500 hour service on the engine was accomplished with changing the fuel filters. Doing routine engine maintenance is something we have done on all of our boats, but this was the first time on Andiamo, so extra time was budgeted and the task was intentionally done slowly.
I took an afternoon flight to Chicago to each a class and returned Wednesday night. Laurie did errands, did a long walk to explore more neighborhoods under sunny skies and finished a major and thorough cleaning of the tug.
Thursday morning was for changing the oil and the filter element. An easy job but we made a list of notes and created a procedure, as this will be done every 250 hours, which is about 3 months of cruising the Great Loop. See the Operations & Maintenance Page of this website for that procedure.
Thursday evening was our first “Looper Docktails” with 3 other couples and friends who are doing the Loop or major portions of it. Lots of cruising stories, places to go and mistakes to avoid.
Sunday, March 16
We intended to stay and leave later as the Ortega Marina was 13 miles away. However, a check of the winds showed the current conditions of a steady 12 MPH with gusts to 20 was going to change very soon to 20 MPH and gusts to 35 MPH. The weather was like a billboard with the message of, “Andiamo! or Let’s Go.” We said a quick good-by to Doctor’s Lake Marina.
After clearing the highway bridge, the wind and opposing current had created a northbound 2-3 foot chop. Andiamo was accelerated to the point where the ride was stable and the steering was easy. This was not about fuel efficiency; this was about a safe ride as we cruised at 11 MPH, using 6 gallons per hour and earning 1.5 gallons per mile. About an hour later, the Ortega Bridge was opened for us and Andiamo continued to Lambs Yacht Center to fill up on diesel and pump out the holding tank.
For this side trip off the Great Loop, Andiamo travelled 333 miles, burned 2.3 gallons per hour with the result of 4.2 miles per gallon.
There was no answer to our calls at the Ortega Marina and the wind gusts were over 30 MPH so we tied up at an open dock and Laurie went in search of the dockmaster. The wind continued to build, Andiamo was pinned to the dock and more fenders and lines were put out. A couple of hours later, we were secured in our slip.
Knowing that St. Patrick’s Day was going to be a washout with rain all day, the folding bikes were put together and we cycled through the Avon Neighborhood for an hour and a half and we took in the large, well maintained homes of colonial, Queen Anne, Tudor, Spanish and Mount Vernon styles. The bikes took us down quiet streets, through a park and we turned around at the large St. Vincent Hospital complex.
The evening was closed with 60 Minutes and The Good Wife with tea and cookies.
Monday, through Thursday, March 17 to 20
The rain started quietly and sweetly after midnight and by sunrise it was a downpour but with no wind and temperatures in the mid-60’s. The rain was steady all day with periods of more intensity. By late afternoon, over 2 inches of rain had fallen. Water mitigation strategies were employed to make the cockpit more comfortable. The propane level was evaluated and 6 weeks of near daily use resulted in the tank being about half full.
A car was rented from Hertz, who picked us up at the marina, a huge re-provisioning of food was accomplished and the stage was set to do the 500-hour engine service.
By day’s end, over 2 inches of rain had fallen.
The next day, the rain had moved on just after sunrise. After breakfast, half of the 500 hour service on the engine was accomplished with changing the fuel filters. Doing routine engine maintenance is something we have done on all of our boats, but this was the first time on Andiamo, so extra time was budgeted and the task was intentionally done slowly.
I took an afternoon flight to Chicago to each a class and returned Wednesday night. Laurie did errands, did a long walk to explore more neighborhoods under sunny skies and finished a major and thorough cleaning of the tug.
Thursday morning was for changing the oil and the filter element. An easy job but we made a list of notes and created a procedure, as this will be done every 250 hours, which is about 3 months of cruising the Great Loop. See the Operations & Maintenance Page of this website for that procedure.
Thursday evening was our first “Looper Docktails” with 3 other couples and friends who are doing the Loop or major portions of it. Lots of cruising stories, places to go and mistakes to avoid.
JACKSONVILLE TO FERNANDINA BEACH, FLORIDA
Friday, March 21
We had been off the ICW for two weeks on this side trip and it was time to return. The ICW is to Loopers as the Midwest flyway is to birds; we all travel about the same route and in about the same window, though some leave later than others. Rick and Ann in their 44 foot Endeavor Catamaran left Ortega Landing about an before we did but we would see them again in Fernandina Beach.
Motoring through the urban and industrial area of Jacksonville was easy and smooth under clear skies and the current was with us. Huge cargo ships announced their presence and direction on the marine radio and we adjusted accordingly.
Before reaching the mouth of the St. John’s River at the Atlantic Ocean, we made a hard turn to port and proceeded northbound on Sisters Creek. The ICW is a collection of streams, creeks, rivers, and bays that are sometimes joined together by a man-made ditch. On the charts, the ICW is marked with a thin magenta colored line. Some boaters mistakenly view the magenta line as the scientifically proven place to be in the channel and they find themselves aground. Like most information in boating, it is advisory and the crew needs to do their own assessment of the conditions before them and act accordingly.
On the water, the ICW is marked by the presence of square reflectors on the channel markers. Sister’s Creek snakes through the northern portion of this huge delta created by the St. John’s River. Marsh with waist high grass was on both sides of the channel and extended out wide tas far as the eye could see to end with trees that found dry land to take root.
For the first time on this trip, we cruised with other Loopers. Some we caught up with, and others who passed us. Spring was approaching and the northward migration of boaters was starting. Also, this was the first day that we needed to talk to an oncoming commercial tug that was pushing a huge barge on the narrow and winding channel. The tug captain needed to know what we are going to do so he can setup his long and wide craft for these turns. Our approach is simple, we ask the tug captain what they wanted us to do and then follow their instructions.
Sisters Creek ended at the Nassau River Sound, which was wide and went out to the ocean. We cut across it and proceeded to the Amelia River. We cut a corner on a channel marker and soon after the depth alarm went off saying there were only inches under the tug’s keel. Pulling back on the throttle to an idle and a quick turn to deeper water resolved the issue. The wake-up call was clear, in single digit depths, stay in the channel even though Andiamo has a very shallow draft of 2’-6”.
Andiamo arrived at Fernandina Beach at about 3:30 PM, after 6 hours of motoring and traveling over 50 miles and slipped into the city marina right next to Rick and Ann. Soon after, the Dahon folding bikes were easily set up and we spent the next 90 minutes enjoying this town of 12,000 that is the last one in Florida. The bikes took us across this island to the beaches on the Atlantic side, a tour of the beach houses where a rattlesnake was skirting across the pavement, the nearly 50 square blocks of the National Historic District of incredibly well maintained historic homes, down a 7-block vibrant retail center where we enjoyed ice cream on the corner.
To determine if a town is economically healthy, I look at the parks department, the police cars, the city streets and city hall. All these were well maintained and employees were working.
Fernandina Beach High School is the home of the pirates and they have earned that distinction with piracy in their history. 8 flags have flown over this island. Today, two huge pulp mills dominate this island.
As the sun went down over the replicas of Columbus’s Nina and Pinta, we enjoyed a light dinner and read.
Friday, March 21
We had been off the ICW for two weeks on this side trip and it was time to return. The ICW is to Loopers as the Midwest flyway is to birds; we all travel about the same route and in about the same window, though some leave later than others. Rick and Ann in their 44 foot Endeavor Catamaran left Ortega Landing about an before we did but we would see them again in Fernandina Beach.
Motoring through the urban and industrial area of Jacksonville was easy and smooth under clear skies and the current was with us. Huge cargo ships announced their presence and direction on the marine radio and we adjusted accordingly.
Before reaching the mouth of the St. John’s River at the Atlantic Ocean, we made a hard turn to port and proceeded northbound on Sisters Creek. The ICW is a collection of streams, creeks, rivers, and bays that are sometimes joined together by a man-made ditch. On the charts, the ICW is marked with a thin magenta colored line. Some boaters mistakenly view the magenta line as the scientifically proven place to be in the channel and they find themselves aground. Like most information in boating, it is advisory and the crew needs to do their own assessment of the conditions before them and act accordingly.
On the water, the ICW is marked by the presence of square reflectors on the channel markers. Sister’s Creek snakes through the northern portion of this huge delta created by the St. John’s River. Marsh with waist high grass was on both sides of the channel and extended out wide tas far as the eye could see to end with trees that found dry land to take root.
For the first time on this trip, we cruised with other Loopers. Some we caught up with, and others who passed us. Spring was approaching and the northward migration of boaters was starting. Also, this was the first day that we needed to talk to an oncoming commercial tug that was pushing a huge barge on the narrow and winding channel. The tug captain needed to know what we are going to do so he can setup his long and wide craft for these turns. Our approach is simple, we ask the tug captain what they wanted us to do and then follow their instructions.
Sisters Creek ended at the Nassau River Sound, which was wide and went out to the ocean. We cut across it and proceeded to the Amelia River. We cut a corner on a channel marker and soon after the depth alarm went off saying there were only inches under the tug’s keel. Pulling back on the throttle to an idle and a quick turn to deeper water resolved the issue. The wake-up call was clear, in single digit depths, stay in the channel even though Andiamo has a very shallow draft of 2’-6”.
Andiamo arrived at Fernandina Beach at about 3:30 PM, after 6 hours of motoring and traveling over 50 miles and slipped into the city marina right next to Rick and Ann. Soon after, the Dahon folding bikes were easily set up and we spent the next 90 minutes enjoying this town of 12,000 that is the last one in Florida. The bikes took us across this island to the beaches on the Atlantic side, a tour of the beach houses where a rattlesnake was skirting across the pavement, the nearly 50 square blocks of the National Historic District of incredibly well maintained historic homes, down a 7-block vibrant retail center where we enjoyed ice cream on the corner.
To determine if a town is economically healthy, I look at the parks department, the police cars, the city streets and city hall. All these were well maintained and employees were working.
Fernandina Beach High School is the home of the pirates and they have earned that distinction with piracy in their history. 8 flags have flown over this island. Today, two huge pulp mills dominate this island.
As the sun went down over the replicas of Columbus’s Nina and Pinta, we enjoyed a light dinner and read.
contradictions and just for fun
Who is the seller? Are these potential buyers? What is for sale?
This waterway is completely clogged by Water Hyacinth and in is not navigable. This is the saga of a plant brought to North America in good faith as a gift at a World's Fair and has become an ecological disaster. After chemicals were rejected, and physical removal was too expensive, biological methods have recently been tried.
The ultimate multi-purpose transportation mode.
Not really a contradiction, perhaps the acknowledgment of being comfortable with their role in the world.
If floats but may not go anywhere, but it has personality and is memorable.
Of the hundreds of channel markers encounter, this the first one that was occupied and served another purpose.
A great sign and a viable idea until you realize that this is the only sign, there are no others.
Comfort station is so much more polite than restroom. Why didn't it catch on?
No one knew that this ship does expect "research."
